More is indeed merrier, but it also allows little time to research all those new and emerging designers. Here, the skinny on fall’s fresh faces and labels.
SUE STEMP, Saturday, Feb. 4, 6 p.m.
Pedigree: Stemp, 34, has stints at Ghost, Daryl K and Tocca under her belt. She was design director of Ana Abdul’s line, Language, and consulted for Alexander McQueen on his fall 2005 collection. The British expat started making custom pieces for friends such as Kate Moss in 2004. Her first full collection bowed for spring 2006.
Sales: The collection soon will be sold at stores such as Dernier Cri in New York, Holt Renfrew in Canada, Joyce in Hong Kong and Lobby in Japan.
What to expect: Fifteen looks cut in textiles inspired by pictures that Stemp took in Hong Kong and Japan.
LEWIS ALBERT, Sunday, Feb. 5, Noon
Pedigree: Harvard student Lewis Remele is four months shy of graduation. The Minneapolis native started designing for theater productions, eventually branching out to create a capsule collection last season that was shown in Boston and attended by 450 college students.
Sales: None at retail, but Remele racked up $150,000 in wholesale orders at private trunk shows with his first collection.
What to expect: Around 22 looks with an evening slant.
YOUCO, Sunday, Feb. 5, 1 p.m.
Pedigree: Formerly a designer at Tocca, Youco Harada, 29, studied fashion illustration and design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and the London College of Fashion. Harada, who grew up in Japan, parted ways with Tocca in October to concentrate on her debut women’s and men’s collection for fall 2006.
Sales: None — this is Harada’s first collection.
What to expect: Inspired by the idea of a spiral staircase, Harada is showing voluminous, round skirts; dresses; jackets, and trousers. Shunning black for her first collection, she used a palette of mostly gray and camel.
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3.1 PHILLIP LIM, Sunday, Feb. 5, 6 p.m.
Pedigree: Phillip Lim, 31, cut his design teeth at Katayone Adeli before taking the reins at Development. Early last year, he moved to New York and started 3.1, a contemporary line that offers his customers clothes that echo designer trends at excellent prices.
Sales: A few of 3.1’s U.S. doors include Barneys New York, Fred Segal Flair and Nordstrom. Overseas, the brand sells at stores such as Beams International and United Arrows in Japan.
What to expect: Twenty looks presented in an installation that combines the “overwhelming sculpture of Richard Serra and the lightness of origami,” says Lim. The designer also will be showing more of his recently launched shoes and bags, as well as evening gowns — a category he’s only just touched on.
SOFADA, Monday, Feb. 6, 11 a.m.
Pedigree: A native of Oregon, Alice Dobson studied at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising in Los Angeles, where she launched Sofada (Portuguese for “naughty”) on a small scale as a student. In 2002, she opened a boutique in Portland, Ore., dedicated to her label.
Sales: The line is available at 37 West Coast stores, such as Sweetie in Seattle and Ooma in San Francisco.
What to expect: About 30 feminine looks that include full skirts with touches of tulle, as well as fitted blazers and a three-piece suit done in a heavy brocade.
COURTNEY WASHINGTON, Monday, Feb. 6, 3 p.m.
Pedigree: In 1994, Washington, 37, moved from Jamaica to New York, where he attended Pratt Institute and the Fashion Institute of Technology. He bowed his first collection for spring 1996.
Sales: Aside from his recently opened store on 38th Street in New York, Washington’s line is carried by more than 300 stores throughout the U.S., Canada and Europe.
What to expect: About 30 pieces that are geared toward the career woman, with soft silhouettes that include boiled wool skirts and mandarin-collared jackets.
RODEBJER, Monday, Feb. 6, 3-5 p.m.
Pedigree: Swedish designer Carin Rodebjer, 35, began producing clothes for herself and friends while attending FIT, but officially launched her line in Sweden in 1999. Thanks to her Fresh Faces of Fashion by Gen Art nomination last season, Rodebjer is now making a name for herself in the U.S.
Sales: The line is sold at stores throughout Europe and Japan, and at 25 more in the U.S., such as Steven Alan in New York and Madison in Los Angeles.
What to expect: This season, Rodebjer was inspired by “a purity of mind,” and says her collection, consisting of 12 to 14 looks, has an “Old Testament” flair. In other words, look for strict cuts, high collars and classic English shirt cottons blended with silk chiffon and marble-printed jersey.
ADAM+EVE, Monday, Feb. 6, 5-7 p.m.
Pedigree: Designer Adam Lippes spent seven years working closely with Oscar de la Renta before launching adam+eve in early 2004 with his business partner, Electra Toub.
Sales: They quadrupled in 2005. In New York, the line is available at stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman and Intermix. Internationally, it is sold at United Arrows in Japan, Harvey Nichols in the U.K. and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong.
What to expect: Eighteen women’s looks and seven men’s that go well beyond adam+eve’s supersoft cotton staples.
ASHTON HALL — THE COLLECTION, Wednesday, Feb. 8, 5 p.m.
Pedigree: After graduating from FIT, Hall, 39, began working with designers including Michael Kors and Alvin Valley. He launched his men’s and women’s lines for fall 2000.
Sales: Hall’s women’s line is carried by about 15 boutiques, such as CPW, Daphnee and Really Great Things, all in New York.
What to expect: Fifty looks of versatile separates that Hall describes as “classic with a twist.” Soft leather pieces, dresses and suits with hand-stitched details and the debut of leather bags — from duffles to messengers to handbags.
TODD SMITH, Thursday, Feb. 9, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Pedigree: Todd Smith is known to most as LL Cool J. But the talented rapper and actor is now branching into fashion, and not just with a license. Smith has partnered with veteran fashion execs Ronald and William Gallo to form a company called Standard Fashion.
Sales: None yet, but Smith has already met with Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue.
What to expect: Nothing remotely hip-hop related. “For the men, it’s city chic — suits, casual separates,” says Smith. “The women’s will have soft tailoring, fluid lines. It’ll be elegant and sophisticated, but still hot and sexy.”
ARAKS, Thursday, Feb. 9, 4 p.m.
Pedigree: Parsons grad Araks Yeramyan, 31, started her lingerie collection in 2000, after stints at Marc Jacobs and J. Crew. It was soon a hit with fans such as Sofia Coppola, who famously used Araks cotton briefs in the opening shot for “Lost in Translation.” She launched swimwear in 2004 and then launched ready-to-wear last spring.
Sales: Araks is sold across the country, including Calypso St. Barths, Fred Segal and Barneys New York, which will also carry the spring rtw.
What to expect: Eighteen to 25 looks in Yeramyan’s characteristic unprecious but feminine style, with a color palette that runs on the moody side.
ARTHUR MENDONCA, Thursday, Feb. 9, 4 p.m.
Pedigree: Canadian-born Mendonca, 29, studied fashion at Toronto’s Ryerson University, and then worked with Toronto-based David Dixon for two years. His first collection bowed for spring 2003 at Toronto Fashion Week, and he later participated in Los Angeles Fashion Week. This is his first New York showing.
Sales: Carried by 27 stores, including Institute in New York, Holt Renfrew in Toronto and Fisher & Company in London.
What to expect: A romantic influence with an “Eighties party/art scene flair.” Mendonca is showing a small, 10-look presentation, but will show about 40 at Toronto Fashion Week.
JASON WU, Thursday, Feb. 9, 9 p.m.
Pedigree: Wu, 23, is the creative director and a partner at Integrity Toys, where he designs high-fashion dolls, such as one with a red vinyl corset based on RuPaul. The Parsons grad produced a capsule, woman-sized collection of eveningwear for spring 2006.
Sales: Not yet. According to Wu, his first collection was only for the press, but now he’s ready to sell.
What to expect: Thirty looks in muted and wintry tones that venture from sportswear to cocktail frocks and full evening.
ACID/ALKALI, Thursday, Feb. 9, 9 p.m.
Pedigree: Industrial designer Scott Chester, 39, began his career under the name ACID, customizing graphic helmets and motorcycles. He met his partner, Evelyn Luna, in 2001, when she was a designer for Diane von Furstenberg and contacted him to create a graffiti-inspired print for a DVF collection.
Sales: None, but they are hoping to appeal to the “pop-culture/fashion crowd.”
What to expect: Men’s and women’s “leisure and casualwear” of the velour and fleece jumpsuit variety.
MANUEL, Friday, Feb. 10, 1 p.m.
Pedigree: Manuel Cuevas, 73, worked for 14 years with famed rodeo clothing designer Nudie Cohn before starting his own business in the mid-Seventies. Cuevas has made clothes for clients such as Dolly Parton and Johnny Cash. His Star-Spangled Couture collection, 52 embroidered and beaded jackets that celebrate the American states, was exhibited at Nashville’s First Center of the Visual Arts.
Sales: Cuevas does not wholesale his work, but is hoping to do so beginning this season.
What to expect: Fifty-two men’s and women’s looks based on Cuevas’ Star-Spangled pieces.