NEW YORK – The contemporary market continued to give buyers much to talk about throughout 2005 and the buzz is expected to roll into the new year.
“As a category, the contemporary market has been the most influential and affecting, directing every other category of women’s wear,” said Renee Roman, contemporary market specialist at the Doneger Group buying office. “Its popularity will continue to grow throughout 2006, but its struggle as a category will be to create an identity that will be able to continue to distinguish itself as a fashion leader.”
Designers and executives from the sector anticipate retail and category expansion in the new year. Here, some reflections on 2005 and what’s on the agenda for 2006.
Phillip Lim, designer, 3.1 Phillip Lim
Accomplishments: “My biggest accomplishment was the conception and the overwhelmingly positive reaction to 3.1 Phillip Lim. It wasn’t just about moving to New York City and whipping up clothes with a new label attached. It was about having the opportunity to conceptualize, execute and deliver clothes that I believe in and am proud to have my name associated with. It really was a banner year. We shattered our forecast sales goals for 2005 and we received windows dedicated to 3.1 Phillip Lim at the Barneys New York flagship store on Madison Avenue.”
Disappointments: “If I had to scour through the year with a fine-tooth comb, I would have to say that the biggest disappointment was not having enough time and manpower to satisfy everything I wanted to do.”
Goals: “For 2006, I want to broaden product categories like shoes, accessories and handbags, expand and grow sales territory worldwide and continue to dream up and make beautiful clothes that we are passionate about.”
Tony Melillo, designer, Generra
Accomplishments: “My accomplishments were launching Generra Jeans successfully and growing a really strong design team that totally gets me and my bizarre way of communicating.”
Goal: “For 2006, I want to keep learning, growing and, hopefully, giving.”
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Stacey Bendet, president and designer, Alice + Olivia
Accomplishments: “We opened our first retail store in East Hampton, which was a big success. We also doubled our sales between 2004 and 2005 and I think we’ll increase significantly for 2006. We’ve also extended the line and added a larger knit collection.”
Disappointments: “Biggest disappointment? Getting kicked out of the Soho House for throwing bang snaps.”
Goals: “My goal is to open our New York store, hopefully in June. It’s below our showroom and is 1,800 square feet, across from Bryant Park. I also want to enter the Los Angeles market for retail and maybe start doing shoes.”
Rachel Roy, designer, Rachel Roy
Accomplishment: “My biggest accomplishment was taking control of my business, including owning, operating, design, writing the checks and overseeing all aspects of my own company. One of the best things you can give to your children is a knowledge of how to do for themselves and I am hoping to teach my daughter how hard work can lead to owning your own business, so that she can do the same for herself. Greatest accomplishment? The art of perfecting ‘no.'”
Disappointment: “My biggest disappointment would have to be the state of affairs of the world and all of the tragedies of the world. The fact that our young boys and girls are still so far away fighting a war that has yet to bring them home. When they finally do come home, their generation will need so much mental care. It is an alarming thought. And then there is the scary thought of what kind of world are we leaving to our children.”
Goal: “My goal is to be the person God intended me to be. If I can achieve even close to that, business, persona and everything else will fall into place. I also want to learn Italian, French, how to play the piano, sign language, ballroom dancing, or how to fly a plane. I’d also like to take another wine class. I would be happy achieving at least one of these.”
Jameel Spencer, chief marketing officer, Rocawear
Accomplishment: “I think our biggest accomplishment this year was Jay’s [Shawn ‘Jay-Z’ Carter] return to the forefront of the brand. With him in the driver’s seat, we can complete the circle of influence. Consumers loved the brand because of his attachment and now they can love it even more because his personal taste level is now synonymous with all aspects, including design, sales and marketing.”
Goal: “I look forward to 2006 because consumers will be able to get the full picture into the complete world of Jay as he continues to grow. With Rocawear being his fashion interest, we will play a large role in shaping how the youth of today and tomorrow dress.”
Charlotte Ronson, designer, Charlotte Ronson
Accomplishments and Disappointments: “[It] has been one of the most trying years for me as a designer…from the highs of opening a flagship store in Japan to leaving my former business partner and establishing a new relationship with Sanei International, a partnership that inspires me every day. Through the seemingly tough times, I’ve learned the lesson of survival. My true love of being a designer has fueled my strength and perseverance to survive and work harder.”
Goals: “[Next year] is going to be a very exciting year for me. C.Ronson is officially relaunching as Charlotte Ronson and with the relaunch of the collection, I am showcasing my growth and maturity as a designer. I’m extremely excited for the work I will be doing in the upcoming year and am proud to present my fall 2006 collection in February. I look forward to continuing to grow professionally within the industry with the support of my family and friends.”