LONDON — There was only one “Mrs. B,” a retailer perpetually on the hunt for fresh design talent who was never afraid to take a chance on young, unknown designers or international names that piqued her interest.
Joan Burstein spent her career in retail, buying and selling luxury fashion and mentoring designers and staff members. She also cared for her customers and cultivated chic wherever she went.
Here, members of the industry remember her wit, talent and determination to live a stylish life.
Related Articles
The British Fashion Council: “A pioneering force in British fashion retail, Joan Burstein played a defining role in shaping the industry as we know it today, championing emerging designers with conviction, insight and an unwavering commitment to creativity. Through her work, she helped establish London as a global center for innovation and talent, supporting generations of designers at the earliest stages of their careers. Her legacy will be felt for years to come, not only in what she built, but in the confidence and visibility she gave to so many. Our thoughts are with her family, friends and all those whose careers she touched.”
You May Also Like
Sir Paul Smith: “Joan Burstein had a unique eye and, coupled with the commercial skill of her husband Sidney, they built a wonderful business in South Molton Street. I was fortunate enough to work in the men’s design room at Browns for a short but formative period early in my career. Joan was a rarity in this industry with the balance of commerciality, vision and elegance. I’ll remember her for her extraordinary warmth.”
Manolo Blahnik: “Mrs. Burstein played a pivotal role in discovering and nurturing the young designers of my generation and those who followed. She truly believed in their potential and championed their creativity with unwavering support. I am deeply grateful for the guidance and encouragement she offered me throughout my career, and I will always cherish her impact on my journey. She lived a remarkable life and will be profoundly missed.”
Angela Missoni: “My fashion icons were Joan Burstein, Joyce Ma, Claude Brouet and, of course my mother [Rosita Missoni]. Those ladies were, and are, perfection, the essence of class and allure. I miss Joan. When she opened Browns in 1970, she opened with Missoni’s 1970 ‘Put Together’ winter collection. Those were the days when she would receive an order and then call up customers to help her unbox the merchandise. She made the unboxing a ‘happening,’ a special moment and was selling the clothes before they even got to the shelves. She and my mother were close, and very respectful of each other. When I was young, I used to help Joan do the orders in our showroom in Sumirago [Italy] and can remember that my brother, Vittorio, did a summer internship at Browns when he was 19.”
Robert Forrest: “I started my life at Browns in the men’s shop but when Mrs. B asked me to move over to work with her and her teams in the women’s business it was the start of a lifelong career and friendship. She was a mentor to not only myself but many, many others. She has been a lifelong friend and, until the end, a formidable Scrabble opponent every day at 5 p.m. to myself all of her carers, visitors and family.
Roland Mouret: “There are moments in this industry where the right advice, a presence, a hand on your shoulder, a smile, pushes you further and gives you courage. That is what Mrs. B was, and so much more.”
Sean Dixon, cofounder and managing director of Richard James: “I was a Saturday boy at Browns during the mid-‘80s. My first job and exposure to the world of fashion. Browns was unique at the time, the only place in London you could find ‘designer clothing.’ The clients, the salespeople, everyone seemed impossibly glamorous and intimidating, especially to a wet-behind-the-ears teenage lad.
“My first encounter with Mrs. B was fairly early on when I was told to venture from the safety of the men’s shop and bring something from the ladies’ store. Her warmth and welcoming smile instantly put me at ease. I instantly recognized I was in the presence of someone confident in all her style choices. The more time I spent in the store, the more I realized how important all her decisions were in creating the beautiful environment I was fortunate to work in.
“I know these words are sometimes overused but she was truly unique and will always be a legend in our industry. So many people owe her their very fortunate careers, me included.”
Holli Rogers: “Two things I loved about becoming CEO of Browns were the consistent access to the legend that was Mrs. B and the stories.
“Being able to contact Mrs. B and ask her thoughts and opinions was fantastic. After all, this was the company she’d built with a dream and vision, well before data and algorithms existed. Browns thrived on gut instinct, great taste and ultimately people.
“I loved her passion for staying curious and informed, which manifested into some strong businesses being built. But the Studio 54/Calvin Klein story is probably my favorite example of Mrs. B’s tenacity and taste colliding into something truly spectacular.
“I do hope that over the last couple of decades, she and her family have been documenting these stories. We all need to hear them. I’m certain I know only a fraction compared to the decades of stories that exist. Please bring them to life and continue the legacy. I can already envision a book and miniseries.
“Browns truly changed people’s lives. It allowed them to find their voice and stand out in their own way. It enabled individuality. Customers always said coming to Browns felt like coming home. Mrs. B wouldn’t have had it any other way.”
Yasmin Sewell: “Her love of fashion, and spotting talent, was more legitimate than anyone I met in the fashion industry. And her loyalty to the brands she loved was unwavering. I recall when I was buying director [of Browns] the number of times she’d want me to buy another season of a designer she adored who was no longer selling. This happened many times, and I’d push back, but her loyalty would win and, well, she was the boss. My favorite memory was of the two of us in the Marni showroom running around trying on jewelry, acting like two teenagers, and then we turned to look in the mirror and she sort of gasped. She said ‘Gosh, I always get shocked when I see an old face.’ She was 80 then.
“There were many moments in the three years I worked for her that we didn’t see eye to eye, and, man, she was a powerhouse. But really she did change my life. She brought me back to London from Australia when I thought my fashion career was over. I remember she looked at me with this particular twinkle in her eye, the same look she gave the many designers she believed in. I’m forever grateful. I wouldn’t be in London today, or had the journey I had, if it wasn’t for her.”
Lindy Woodhead: “She was my good friend, teacher and mentor, and her passing marks a loss of a truly great name in the world of fashion. I was 20 years old when I went to work at Browns early in 1971 as their in-house publicist. I stayed there for three years before leaving to set up my own fashion PR agency. For me, Browns was the greatest university master’s class anyone could dream of receiving. Mrs. Burstein and her husband Sidney worked tirelessly to build their fashion empire of international fashion designers.
“Mrs. B didn’t just talk about fashion, she knew about fashion — what was right for her customers, which designers needed a helping hand, how to spot someone extraordinary. In the winter of 1972, we staged a show for one of Italy’s most influential designers, the late, great Walter Albini, at Blakes Hotel where Grace Coddington took time out from Vogue to model. Earlier that year, Browns had staged a Missoni show at the Ritz hotel, the first time their collection had been shown outside Italy.
“I had the honor of working for the woman who sought out these designers — and many others in the decades to come. She imbued me with a love of fashion. I’ll never lose it, and never forget it. I miss her already.”
Ida Petersson: “Coming to London as a fashion student and having Browns on the door step of LCF’s main building for the Fashion Management course (now the entrance to Elizabeth Line) was dangerous. I missed a few more lectures than I care to admit, losing myself in the Browns Focus boutique on South Molton Street, dreaming of one day working for the company. Mrs. B was already a fashion legend and the stories told in the corridors only further enhanced my desire to be part of Browns one day in the future.
“Mrs. B laid the foundation of supporting new talents in the U.K. before any other retailer and instilled in me a thirst for discovery, which has continued to follow me since my college days and which I put to full use during my own tenure at Browns. I just wish I could have spent time with her in faraway markets during the ’70s and ’80s and experienced the electricity of building the business during its early years. Browns will forever be in my heart and I will always be grateful for the legacy Mrs. B is leaving behind, there’s simply no one like her, and the U.K. fashion scene would not be the same without her incredible eye and willingness to go where no one had been before. The world needs more Joan Bursteins, especially today when the next generation of designers need retailers’ support more than ever.”
Cozette McCreery: “As a teenager growing up in Woldingham [England], a trip up west with friends wouldn’t be complete without heading to the fashion mecca that was Browns, South Molton Street. In fairness, it was the only reason to go to that street.
“Even though we couldn’t afford the garments, we always admired the windows (often showcasing new talent). Amazingly, as it wasn’t the norm, staff were always happy for us to browse. I think much of that attitude filtered down from Mrs. B. Her ethos always seemed to be one of sharing, encouraging and almost educating us about fashion.
“For my 21st, my parents brought me a tiny, burgundy bolero cardigan, a taffeta mini waistcoat (almost like a bra top) and high-waisted legging trousers from the Romeo Gigli section. Mrs. B was in store and told me all about the collection and how thrilled the designer would be to see me wearing it. I was dead chuffed.
“Many years later, I spoke with her about the meeting at some fashion event. Robert Forrest reintroduced us. She was chatty and genuinely pleased that I was a regular in the store since my first wage check.”
Sarah Richardson: “Beautiful, graceful Mrs. B, what an incredible legacy, what an incredible woman. Not sure we would have had Lee McQueen, John Galliano and Hussein Chalayan without her sharp eye, impeccable taste, and giving people she believed in the opportunity to flourish. I definitely wouldn’t be where I am today without hers and Mr. B’s belief in me as a teen.”