PARIS — Mirroring established brands such as Victoria’s Secret, La Perla and Agent Provocateur, several emerging lingerie labels are expanding their presence on the Internet.
Web sites, without the overheads of brick-and-mortar establishments, are proving a vital stepping stone for establishing global identities, according to designers. Often it’s a case of revamping existing sites into password-protected showrooms or full-fledged online boutiques.
“Opening an online store will give access to a wider customer base,” said Fatih Tunga, business manager for So Shei, which was launched in 2004.
With two London-based boutiques and a concession in Topshop, the brand will unveil its online boutique in August.
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Tunga predicts that “Web-savvy consumers,” 18 to 28 years old, will represent the main traffic to the site.
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“I’ve had orders from places I would never have been able to reach without the Internet,” said Italian lingerie and swimwear designer Guia la Bruna, who opened her online store in May. She sees the Web as a vital platform for exposure for niche brands. But, like many newcomers to cyberspace who find gauging online orders a tricky business, la Bruna is using surplus stock to feed demand.
“I see it as a test phase, but I’m already quite surprised by the results,” said the designer, who so far has received around five to 10 orders a day without publicity.
“I think the Internet’s potential for generating business is enormous, as it has such a wide reach,” said Elise Anderegg, who revamped her site in January. “I’ve received many requests to put my collection online from people who live in rural areas or in cities where I’m not distributed.”
Anderegg said she has been approached by a growing number of entrepreneurs who promote online multibrand sites.
With a tendency to overproduce on orders, for many brands the Internet is proving a solution for rerouting stock.
“All of our surplus stock goes online,” said Lorraine Morton, director of British brand Miss Mandalay, which specializes in larger cup size bras.
Web sites are a way of reaching customers directly. Launching a Web site has given access to niche customers searching for extra big sizes not necessarily selected by distributors, said Morton.
Earlier this year, Anderegg was able to upload a piece on her Web site that was featured in a magazine, but was not yet in stores, to cater to consumer demand.
Past collections are also resurfacing on Web sites, including styles from more traditional brands.
“The life cycle of a product is shorter and shorter, and the Internet is great way of dealing with that,” said Daniel Perret, chief executive officer of Millesia, which owns the Nina Ricci lingerie license.
When the firm recently tested 40,000 items from former Millesia collections, 26,000 sold in three days.
“Women are mainly after bargains online,” he said, noting that he will soon be mounting an online showroom for Millesia.
With the complex infrastructure required to maintain a fully functioning online boutique, many brands are restricting their online offer to a minimum, editing one style per collection, as well as on-site promotions. It is also a way of avoiding going head-to-head with their own distributors and creating a buzz among consumers, said several designers.
“We support our retailers and view the sites as an addition rather than us trying to become retailers ourselves,” Morton said.
“I’m planning to upload monthly exclusives,” said Sabrina Nadal, who will launch her Web site in October.
Nadal believes accessible price points and simple silhouettes work best for online lingerie shopping.
“As long as it’s not corsetry, ordering the right fit shouldn’t be too complex,” said Nadal, adding that fabric blends such as Lycra spandex work best in that arena.
Then there are some brands that are opting for password-protected online showrooms restricted to wholesalers.
“We hope it will provide an extra sales channel,” said Monica Park, sales director of Hop Lun, which owns the no romeo, 6ixty 8ight, O Lingerie and Marie Meili brands. “It’s a way of speaking to a new audience such as smaller, rural boutiques.”
The firm is preparing to launch its first online catalogue for the no romeo line this summer.
“The Internet has opened up entirely new possibilities for presenting a collection,” said Park.