PARIS — Buying budgets and attendance were up at the Premiere Classe accessories show, which ended its four-day run here at the Jardin de Tuileries on Oct. 9.
Retailers said they were looking for novelty pieces and new designers. Many reported double-digit increases in their spending outlays ahead of opening new doors in 2007 or increasing the floor space designated to accessories.
Buyers focused on bags, which emerged as the strongest category.
There were 12,984 retailers compared with 12,300 last year. About 60 percent were from outside France, helping to boost attendance 5 percent. The U.S. made up 8 percent of attendees, versus 11 percent in 2005.
“We come here for individuality, for mid-price levels with a point of difference,” said Nicky Sugden, leather goods buyer for British department store chain House of Fraser.
“Patent leather and metallic styles are everywhere, but what’s new in terms of treatments is a prevalence of washed, crinkled or ruched styles,” said Ed Burstell, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of beauty, accessories and shoes at Bergdorf Goodman in New York.
“There are some fantastic techniques with Italian leather here,” said Hedieh Loubier, a jewelry and accessories designer who was visiting the show to check out the trends for private clients.
Loubier lauded Il Bisonte’s washed Italian leather bags for their classic appeal. Vintage treatments were also prevalent.
“Fabrics and skins still have that aged look about them, this time applied to metallics and patent leathers,” said Rick Cytynbaum, buyer for Canadian store TNT.
Cytynbaum also noted the return of the bowling bag and more structured forms.
New bag directions included flat totes and a number of messenger styles that “hug the body,” said Bergdorf’s Burstell.
“Short shoulder bags looked newest and of course clutches that were part of every collection,” he added.
“We’re seeing more hand-held bags than in the past,” said Alissa Emerson, owner of Tuesday’s Child, a designer shop in Scarsdale, N.Y.
Emerson was on the hunt for a new handbag line for spring, and cited pleated and puckered textures, like those seen at Henri Beguelin, as important.
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Chains were still apparent, but often covered in material, said Helen Lambert from French buying office Aga, whose clients include Neiman Marcus and Lane Crawford. Lambert pointed to Avril Gau for its chain bags.
Buyers named Michael Teperson and Thai brand Fly Now’s leather bags in addition to Leapioperaie’s crochet bags as among the standout collections.
Fortnum & Mason’s Ware observed there was “a plethora of leathers, with plenty of python and crocodile.” Shopping ahead of the London Piccadilly store’s revamp, Ware had doubled her 2005 order at U.K. leather brand Piatonna. Its bestseller was a python bag hand-painted to give it an iridescent effect for 735 pounds, or $1,378 at current exchange rates.
Pia Tonna, a former fashion marketing executive, has recently moved the brand to Milan from London to be closer to leather suppliers and better build its reputation for quality craftsmanship.
“I’d hate for us to become a one-season wonder,” Tonna said. “We have celebrities who buy our bags, but that shouldn’t be the point of the bag.”
In jewelry, key trends were “bolder and cleaner pieces,” said Tuesday’s Child’s Emerson.
Jewelry designer Loubier noted the move toward one piece of fantasy jewelry, like the chandelier-style necklaces seen on the runway at Viktor & Rolf.
“Trends in jewelry change so fast,” Loubier said. “If you buy less expensive costume items, you can change them after four months.”
Some buyers said they avoid trends at all cost.
“I need to start reading magazines so I know what not to buy,” said actress Phoebe Cates, who owns the Blue Tree boutique on New York’s Madison Avenue, which has built its reputation by tracking down little-known designers.
“We tend to find Japanese designers here,” Cates said, fresh from ordering Japanese jewelry brand E.M. “We were the only ones to carry it in New York last season, I think. We had their big rings.”
For spring-summer, Cates picked up E.M.’s stackable rings and chandelier-shaped earrings featuring tiny printed initials. Cates was also hunting for handmade accessories.
“We buy two pieces at a time, so there aren’t 20 people with the same thing,” Cates said. “This show is great for good weirdo stuff.”
Browsing jewelry at Atelier VM, Sakurako Nibe from Japanese chain Free’s International said she was looking for Eighties-style items.
“The concept for our shop will be Eighties, so we are looking for kitsch jewelry and charms,” she said, noting that her spending was up as the chain had opened four new doors this fall.