MILAN — Casual. Sportswear. Flats. Sandals. These aren’t exactly looks one would associate with the Roberto Cavalli brand. “One of the things that was important to me was not to pick up where I left off,” said Peter Dundas, the newly minted creative director of the label, in an exclusive interview ahead of his debut on Saturday.
The designer left the Florence-based house 10 years ago, where he was head designer, and returns under very different circumstances in his new role, working with a new owner, Italian private equity firm Clessidra SGR, and a new chief executive officer, Renato Semerari.
The designer Roberto Cavalli sold 90 percent of his namesake company to Clessidra at the end of April in a deal that market sources estimated to be pegged at between 380 million euros and 400 million euros, or $423.5 million and $445.8 million at current exchange. It is understood that neither Cavalli nor his wife Eva will attend the show by Dundas.
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“I am here because I love the house, I enjoyed my time here, but now I am offering a fresh take, my own version of the brand and hopefully it will be different,” said Dundas at Cavalli’s showroom, which is being renovated, reflecting the changes ahead. The brand’s retail network is also expected to be revamped according to Dundas’ vision. The Norwegian designer, who most recently was artistic director of Emilio Pucci, previously worked at Cavalli from 2002 to 2005.
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Asked about his own personal changes against a fashion industry that has not stayed still since then, Dundas acknowledged the evolution of the Cavalli customer as well as his own. “She is a little more casual, carefree and lighter spirited as I adapt my sensibility to the times and fashion, change my register and loosen up, but in a way that is still personal and unique for me.”
He admitted the “rock ‘n’ roll, sensual and exuberant attitude that is part of Cavalli” is still there, but the wardrobe is easy, with a dose of insouciance. There are also more separates that can be mixed and matched in different ways.
Perhaps a sign of a color-overdrive at Pucci, Dundas said the Cavalli spring collection is “less colorful.” That does not mean a lack of hues, but a “more natural” palette, with earthy, washed tones. “I grew up in a forest,” said Dundas by way of explanation.
Fabrics that are treated for “comfort, ease, daywear,” and a lineup that is “sportswear-oriented,” are also key elements, as is denim. “This is my idea of vibe for the house right for now,” the designer said.
Cavalli’s staple animal prints are reworked in a modern way, at times almost pixelated, and Dundas plays with camouflage, images of a lion and of the mythological winged horse Pegasus.
With an American mother and a Norwegian father, living between Paris, Italy and London, Dundas feels his customer is equally international. He praised Italian craftsmanship and said he is reorganizing his teams, between London and Milan, moving part of the “core team” from Florence to Milan.
“It’s a practical choice, to be close to the ceo, and the communication office and create a tight relation with them,” said Dundas. He referred to Semerari as an executive who “understands luxury and has an international background — and he enjoys a laugh. I like that.” Semerari was previously president of Coty Group, and prior to that, was ceo of Guerlain and president and ceo of Sephora Europe. Coty is Cavalli’s fragrance licensee.
Dundas will be in charge of the Just Cavalli and Class Cavalli lines, as well as the home collection and its extension into hospitality, the Cavalli Clubs and Cafés around the world. “Roberto and Eva taught me that this is a lifestyle brand. Today it’s my responsibility to interpret [the label] my way and differently, moving with the times.”
Dundas is aware “expectations are high, but Clessidra is very supportive.”
The show on Saturday will take place at the 17th-century Baroque Palazzo del Senato here. “I am spoiled, there are such beautiful locations here and I immediately loved the palazzo for the show, with its open air and columns, it gives me a sense of freedom,” said Dundas. “I love freedom.”