LONDON — Outerwear, embellishment and elegant day dressing were the big themes to emerge from London Fashion Week, according to retailers from stores on both sides of the Atlantic.
Among their favorites were London stalwarts Erdem, Roksanda and Burberry, as well as emerging labels showcased at Fashion East. Here, they highlight their favorites and discoveries.
Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom
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Favorite collections: Erdem, Simone Rocha, Goyagoma, Conner Ives, Burberry
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What one trend will matter in six months? Ladylike dressing felt more playful this season, with a relaxed, feminine ease across collections.
Any categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? Outerwear and accessories emerged as areas of focus this season. Textural outerwear stood out across collections, from embellished quilted and shearling coats to embossed leather jackets and tweed styles. Accessories mirrored this tactile focus.
Any new discoveries? Any emerging brand you are ready to buy into? Goyagoma delivered a refreshing debut at Fashion East, balancing precise tailoring with romantic shapes to create an exciting, distinguished collection that rethinks the modern woman’s wardrobe. Liberowe’s gallery presentation gave the impeccably crafted lady jacket a museum-like quality.
What show best met the moment? Conner Ives captured the mood of how we want to get dressed right now — glamorous clothes made for dancing and a party you don’t want to end —acknowledging both the complexity of the moment and the optimism that dressing up can bring. Erdem’s 20th anniversary collection celebrated the designer’s greatest hits and most beloved silhouettes, marking a major milestone for an independent fashion house
What, if anything, did you feel “shift” this season? More brands opted for intimate presentation formats, allowing for closer engagement with the collection and a deeper appreciation of craft and detail, while offering insight into the clients and communities around each brand.
If you could sum up the season in one word: Decorated.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Erdem, Pauline Dujancourt, Oscar Ouyang, Chopova Lowena, Simone Rocha
What one trend will matter in six months? Statement coats and outerwear were everywhere and felt very desirable.
Prints were a little bit less seen this season and were surpassed by textured fabrics and thick woven garments instead.
Where are you increasing spend? We believe in London Fashion Week and the designers who showed here. It was a very exciting season overall, and we are confident with our spends across the board.
Any categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? Dresses is a growing category for us at the moment and something that will continue to build our customers’ wardrobes.
Any new discoveries? Any emerging brand you are ready to buy into? We were excited by what Pauline Dujancourt showed on the runway this season. Her aesthetic is something we believe our customers will really love.
What show best met the moment? Julien Macdonald’s show on top of The Shard was “the moment” in that moment. At sunset, he presented a collection of not-to-miss party dresses.
What, if anything, did you feel “shift” this season? Collections that we buy already evolved in a way that will keep our customers coming, as well as London really cementing its position as a destination for new and emerging brands.
If you could sum up the season in one word: New.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying and group fashion venture officer, Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Simone Rocha, Erdem, Alessandra Rich, Thevxlley, Chopova Lowena
What one trend will matter in six months? Gothic romance will have real longevity. We’re seeing poetic layering, corsetry, and moody florals evolve into a modern, highly wearable narrative. Utility, on the other hand, feels fatigued. The overtly functional codes are giving way to something more refined and emotionally driven.
Where are you increasing spend, and where are you being more cautious? We’re meaningfully increasing our investment in ready-to-wear, particularly in elevated, statement-making pieces that anchor a wardrobe. At the same time, we’re holding entry price points steady and being disciplined in areas where demand feels more price-sensitive.
Any categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? Outerwear is a clear focus, especially leather, which feels directional and collectible, alongside a renewed appetite for cocktail dressing. We’re also seeing strong momentum in tailored trousers and denim, both of which are becoming essential wardrobe drivers.
Any new discoveries? Any emerging brand you are ready to buy into? We’re still navigating the ripple effect of last season’s creative director changes, so this is a moment of careful evaluation. While we’re always scouting emerging talent, few brands are currently positioned to scale at the level our platform requires.
What show best met the moment? London this season felt more evolutionary than singular, with strength spread across several collections rather than one defining show. It was less about spectacle and more about a collective recalibration toward craft and clarity.
What, if anything, did you feel “shift” this season? There’s a palpable move toward sophistication and craftsmanship, with designers leaning into technique and considered construction. The street-inflected aesthetic that once defined London is softening, replaced by a more polished and enduring sensibility.
If you could sum up the season in one word: Romantic.
Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: Erdem, Simone Rocha, Pauline Dujancourt, Liberowe
What one trend will matter in six months? Embellishments, the adventurous mix of patterns and textures is key; blending bold plaids, intricate florals, and abstract prints with rich fabrics like velvet, satin, and layered knits.
Where are you increasing spend, and where are you being more cautious? We are increasing our runway buys as our customers get really excited by the newness and key runway looks.
Any categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? For fall 2025, we had an exceptional season across boots, so we will continue to push this category going into next season.
Any new discoveries? Any emerging brand you are ready to buy into? We always have our eyes on emerging brands, but I prefer to disclose them after we close the season. We have to keep some secrets.
What show best met the moment? Hard to pick between Erdem and Simone Rocha. I really loved both collections, the music and their locations.
If you could sum up the season in one word: Warmth.
Simon Longland, fashion buying director, Harrods
Favorite collections: Burberry, Erdem, Emilia Wickstead, Joseph, Patrick McDowell
What one trend will matter in six months? London resists reduction to a single trend. The breadth and diversity of brands on show make it difficult — and arguably unnecessary — to define a uniform direction. This plurality is precisely what gives London its distinct energy and enduring relevance among the four major fashion weeks.
Any new discoveries? Any emerging brand you are ready to buy into? We have identified a number of emerging brands that align with our direction, and we will be introducing new names into the assortment in due course.
What show best met the moment? Erdem’s 20th anniversary show — both a celebration of heritage and a clear statement of continued relevance.
What, if anything, did you feel “shift” this season? While London retains its energy, there is a noticeable shift in focus toward craft, quality, and, ultimately, wearability. The most compelling collections are those that balance creativity with a sense of purpose and longevity.
If you could sum up the season in one word: Intentional.
Kate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: Simone Rocha, Erdem, Burberry, Goyagoma, Patrick McDowell
What one trend will matter in six months? Leather and suede remain very important as customers look for investment pieces — the Burberry show featured this front and center. Bright and joyful color is also here to stay and a trend that will have longevity.
I am hoping that harem pants are quite short-lived.
Any categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? Outerwear has been performing extremely well for us, with customers willing to invest in statement pieces that are the anchor of the outfit.
Any new discoveries? Any emerging brand you are ready to buy into? We are launching two new British brands this month — Patrick McDowell and Aaron Esh. Championing British talent is very important to our strategy, and we are really excited to be supporting these new brands.
What show best met the moment? Simone Rocha was a standout for me. Today’s market prizes narrative depth, where storytelling and authenticity are as important as silhouette and trend, and I find that to be unwavering at Simone Rocha. It managed to be both editorially rich and commercially savvy with the launch of the Adidas collaboration.
If you could sum up the season in one word: Longevity. Erdem commemorated 20 years at his anniversary show at Tate Britain, Roksanda and the British Fashion Council hosted the most beautiful dinner at Claridge’s with friends who have been with her since the beginning. Both of these were a mark of extraordinary British talent nurtured within London Fashion Week.
Chloe King, director, fashion and lifestyle at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Simone Rocha, Erdem, Burberry, Conner Ives
What one trend will matter in six months? A Victorian-meets-Regency sense of romance. The occasion wear this week was exquisite — sculptural and ribboned at Simone Rocha, jewel-encrusted pencil dresses and gauzy hoop-skirted gowns at Erdem, and dramatic pleated panniers and trains at Emilia Wickstead.
Any new discoveries? We are proud to carry Liberowe at Saks, where chic, minimal tailoring evolved into shredded metallic tweed and a bustled bridal ball skirt. George Trochopoulos was another standout studio visit. His innovative knit techniques both hug and transform the body in ways that feel extraordinary and thought-provoking.
What show best met the moment? Simone Rocha. She harnessed her many interests and singular point of view into a magical show. The emotional three-act collection balanced a deep understanding of womanhood with a modern, covetable approach to dressing.
What, if anything, did you feel “shift” this season? While London Fashion Week is synonymous with experimentation and the avant-garde, there was a new sense of grounded wearability. At Erdem and Conner Ives, respective brand signatures of bow-trimmed corsetry and embroidered kimono jackets were paired with relaxed, everyday denim.
If you could sum up the season in one word: Affirmation. London remains steadfast in its support of independent brands and fashion’s contribution to British culture — underscored by HRH King Charles III front row at Tolu Coker.
Andrea Bonecco, head of womenswear, menswear, and kids, Rinascente
Favorite collections: Burberry, Simone Rocha, Erdem, Chopova Lowena, Joseph
What one trend will matter in six months? What’s a pass? The trend that will matter is structured romanticism, feminine silhouettes with architectural construction, wearable layering, and strong outerwear. Pass: Overly literal 2000s revival looks and basic casual pieces lacking distinct point of view.
Where are you increasing spend, and where are you being more cautious? Increasing spend in outerwear and tailoring, categories that anchor the wardrobe and justify premium pricing. I’m more cautious on occasion wear without strong storytelling and ultra trend-driven pieces.
Any categories in which you will place a deeper buy this season? Coats remain the most powerful category in terms of perceived value and seasonal storytelling. Structured day dresses offer versatility; they transition from day to evening and speak to a modern, confident client.
Any new discoveries? Any emerging brand you are ready to buy into? Tolu Coker, Karoline Vitto, Dreaming Eli
What show best met the moment? Burberry and Simone Rocha.
What, if anything, did you feel “shift” this season? There was a real shift toward practical creativity: designers anchored their creativity in pieces that feel intentional and wearable, rather than purely spectacular, suggesting the market is valuing clothes that connect meaningfully with consumers’ lifestyles and wardrobes, not just show moments.
If you could sum up the season in one word: Architectural.
With contributions from Lily Templeton, Paris