MILAN — Chef Hirohiko Shimizu, who introduced Milan to the revolutionary patisserie sushi concept Basara in 2011, has embarked on a new venture that channels traditional methods. On Oct. 1, Shimizu, along with founder Taka Matsu and chef Daigo Wakui, opened the doors to Sushi Matsu Omakase, an experience reviving the antique Edomae sushi-making style that originated in Edo (present-day Tokyo) around 200 years ago. It was before the dawn of modern conveniences like refrigeration, when fish was prepared using techniques such as salting, marinating in vinegar or soy sauce, cooking or searing, while preserving its freshness while enhancing its flavor. “It’s a very simple style,” Shimizu told WWD, adding that the Omakase menu is based on seasonal ingredients in order to create one-of-a-kind menus on a daily basis. A guarantee, he said, “there won’t be any salmon.” Contrary to popular belief, raw salmon was not introduced into sushi-making until the 1980s. Before that time, it was considered unsafe due to the number of parasites found in local Pacific salmon. Sushi Matsu Omakase’s interiors were designed by Studio Takeda in the same spirit of Edo-era culinary culture with cherry-blossom pink walls, light wood and rice paper detailing. Located in the upscale Porta Venezia district of the Italian fashion capital, the new location is open for lunch and dinner with prices for lunch omakase starting at 80 euros and dinner omakase starting at 160 euros. Seating is limited — the sushi counter accommodates a maximum of 14 guests at a time.
Via Alvise Cadamosto 7
20129 Milano (MI) Italy
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