PARIS — Police, protesters, politicians and a line stretching down the block marked the highly anticipated — and acrimonious — opening of Chinese ultra-fast-fashion retailer Shein’s first permanent store in Paris.
Shoppers started lining up in the early hours to claim tickets granting afternoon access to the 10,800-square-foot space on the top floor of the BHV Marais department store, where staff were outfitted in black-and-pink “Shein Squad” jumpsuits and baseball caps.
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Customers, ranging from their 20s to their 80s, cited low prices as the main draw. “It’s the price, first of all — the price is attractive. I never used to come to BHV because the prices weren’t this low here. But now, why not?” said one woman in her 60s who was in the first dozen to cross the security rope.
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Outside, protesters and politicians demonstrated against the opening, with hundreds of people holding everything from homemade signs to flyers with QR codes linking to an anti-Shein petition.
Sen. Ian Brossat, whose district includes Paris, called Shein “a symbol of everything we don’t want for Paris. It represents an economy that doesn’t respect the environment, workers’ conditions or even the most basic moral principles,” he told WWD.
Brossat said local authorities could not prevent Shein from setting up shop in the French capital. “The city can encourage the establishment of ethical businesses, but to directly intervene against Shein — especially regarding its opening at BHV — the City of Paris simply doesn’t have that power. Otherwise, we would obviously have done so,” he added.
Frédéric Merlin, chief executive officer of BHV parent company Société des Grands Magasins, acknowledged the controversy, but highlighted the enthusiastic crowd.
“Many are BHV shoppers. That’s the surprise — and the best reward, because we’ve been challenged a lot since the beginning. It’s going to depend on the quality of the products we sell, and the kind of service we provide,” he said at a press conference ahead of the opening.
Merlin dismissed concerns about quality and said the Shein products BHV carries have been vetted to comply with workers’ rights.
He also defended the physical location as a way to curb overconsumption and its associated environmental impacts. “We reduce that impulsive side of buying by letting customers touch and try items,” he said, adding that the store would also boost foot traffic for other brands.
“What we want is to offer a quality shopping experience. I’m always saddened when people are set against each other, because commerce isn’t about division. When I see hundreds of people waiting outside since 8:30 a.m., even though we announced the opening for 1 p.m., I’m touched, as a retailer. It’s my job to bring people into my stores.”
SGM, a commercial real estate company created in 2021 by Merlin and his sister Maryline, acquired BHV in 2022 and has faced financial instability since then.
Until now, Shein has been limited to pop-ups across France, including one in Paris during fashion week. Still, it’s the fifth favorite brand in France and the fifth-largest apparel seller by volume, according to a study conducted by L’Institut Français de la Mode, partially due to its low prices.
Shein plans to open five more outposts in Dijon, Reims, Grenoble, Angers and Limoges through stores belonging to SGM that were formerly under the Galeries Lafayette banner.
Addressing Galeries Lafayette’s decision Tuesday to end its partnership with BHV and remove its name from those regional stores, Merlin framed it as a mutual decision and a way to expand the BHV brand. Asked if Shein will boost the beleaguered company’s fortunes, he demurred. “As for how much [Shein] will bring economically to BHV itself — the company will see in about a month,” he said.
France Moves to Suspend Access to Platform Amidst Opening
While shoppers were busy combing the racks, the French government moved to suspend the platform following a judicial investigation into the sale of sex dolls resembling children. In a statement, the Finance Ministry said the suspension ordered by Prime Minister Sébastien Lecornu will be temporary, allowing the platform time to comply with French law, with a progress report expected within 48 hours.
Shein said separately it was suspending its marketplace in France independently of the government’s decision, citing concerns over regulating third-party sellers and emphasizing its commitment to customer safety and regulatory compliance.
“We take note of today’s announcement by the government. The safety of our customers and the integrity of our marketplace are our top priorities,” said Shein director of external relations Quentin Ruffat in a statement to WWD. “This suspension allows us to strengthen our accountability mechanisms and ensure that every product offered meets our standards and legal obligations.”
The company added that it “wishes to engage in a dialogue with the French authorities as soon as possible in order to address the concerns expressed and to present the measures already implemented to protect French consumers.”
The Singapore-headquartered company has faced increased regulatory scrutiny and fines in France totaling 191 million euros for issues including misleading promotions, data collection and environmental violations.
Speaking at the press conference, Merlin added that he had vetted all Shein — but not marketplace — products carried at BHV. “I personally guarantee the quality of the products that are here. These are Shein products, and I’m proud to say that,” he said.
Shein Spurred a Brand Exodus
The controversy has already affected BHV’s partnerships. Disneyland Paris withdrew a planned BHV holiday sponsorship, which resulted in the department store canceling its traditional Christmas kickoff celebration.
Meanwhile, the Banque des territoires withdrew from negotiations to help SGM buy back the BHV Marais building last month.
Coupled with the department store’s financial woes, the Shein opening has triggered a brand exodus from the department store, with labels Agnès B., A.P.C., Figaret, and Rivedroite exiting.
Agnès Troublé, the founder of the French family-owned brand Agnès B, announced her withdrawal Tuesday, and kept her shop-in-shop symbolically closed on Wednesday.
“Shein’s entry into French retail, through a player like BHV, worries us. It gives a form of legitimacy to social, human and environmental practices that we consider contrary to our ethics and values,” the designer said. “Our positioning stems from our values. We regret that BHV made a choice that, in our view, goes against the principles of responsible commerce in France.”
Shein’s arrival at BHV resulted in some soul searching on brand values, she said, and the ensuing doll controversy strengthened her conviction that the department store was no longer the right fit. “Taken together, these factors made the decision clear,” Troublé added.
French ethical accessories brand Rivedroite also announced its decision to sever ties with the store.
“It is indeed a bold public statement — one that comes with significant business implications, particularly for a young brand. Yet, as a sustainable brand, we believe it is our responsibility to take a stand,” said Rivedroite cofounder Yasmine Auquier Buron.
Rivedroite provides transparent wage, production and pricing information to its customers. Auquier Buron believes Shein’s prices are “simply impossible to achieve while operating within the boundaries of the law.”
She further criticized Shein’s business model and environmental impact. “Shein positions itself as a brand that enables low-income consumers to purchase clothing on a regular basis. It is a plain lie,” she said. “Ultra-fast fashion makes it worse because most of their garments cannot be washed more than one or two times, and 30 percent are discarded before being worn once.”
Other industry insiders emphasized the economic impacts of Shein’s expansion.
“Shein and Temu now make up 5 percent share [in value] of the apparel market in France. It has completely destabilized the whole ecosystem, and a lot of retailers have gone bankrupt in France due to the incremental growth of Shein and Temu in the fashion market, delivering very cheap prices,” said French fashion industry union president Pierre-François Le Louët.
While Merlin may be counting on Shein to increase foot traffic at the beleaguered BHV, the previous pop-ups have not resulted in knock-on sales boosts for other brands, Le Louët said. “All we’ve experienced with the Shein pop-ups is that the people who buy Shein are mostly attracted by the very low prices. And when you put them in an environment with more upscale brands, they don’t buy.”
Le Louët said the store’s opening offer, which has every euro spent at Shein translating into a voucher that can be spent on other BHV brands, was unfair to those whom the retailer owes back payment.
The executive also dismissed the argument that Shein’s cheap prices boost consumer spending power, as he argued the poor quality of the clothes means they can only be worn a few time before being replaced. “It’s not a fair deal for them, money wise,” he said.
France does not have the technology or capacity to recycle the textiles, resulting in a glut of textile waste, he added.
Yann Rivoallan, president of the women’s ready-to-wear federation, called the opening a “black day for French fashion” and labeled the Shein brand “a symbol of destruction.”
“In all my life, I have never seen such mobilization — brands, associations, employees, influencers, journalists, political leaders, state institutions against a textile company, and it’s far from over,” he said.