NEW YORK — Leather goods specialist Ghurka is embarking on a major retail push and comprehensive image update geared toward women as it turns 30.
The Norwalk, Conn.-based brand has opened a store on Madison Avenue here and plans to launch 10 to 12 outposts in the U.S. in the next three to five years.
The new store, a block north of Barney’s New York, was designed by Janson Goldstein and is a template for future outlets. It has a warm but modern feel, with a gray-brown tile floor, dark wood archways and cream-colored walls with shelves set in for merchandise. In the back, there are buttery, chocolate brown leather ottomans.
Industry experts estimate the New York outlet will generate as much as $5 million in sales in its first year.
In combination with its retail plan, Ghurka is working on a new image. The brand, long known for travel bags and men’s accessories in combinations of rugged leather and cotton twill, will go through a complete overhaul and expansion this year.
Vergier Holdings, owned by Abe Chehebar, who is also chief executive officer of Accessories Network Group, acquired Ghurka in February 2003 from founder Marley Hodgson. Kenneth Landis, a co-founder of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics and former chairman of Vivre, came on board as ceo of Ghurka and president of ANG’s luxury brands division last year.
“It’s important to keep Ghurka’s roots, but to make it modern and fashion-forward,” said Landis, who said he intended to make the collection, now 70 percent men’s accessories, more female-friendly.
As such, a line of black cotton canvas and leather-trimmed luggage and handbags called the Mercier collection made an entry to the line.
Chehebar said he has been carrying a Ghurka Cavalier bag for the past 15 years.
“I loved the brand and when I heard it was available for sale, I had to take the opportunity,” he said. “We see a lot of opportunity with this brand and a chance to open it up to more people. It’s about having a common thread of newness, but instilling new functions that consumers didn’t need 30 years ago.”
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A key part of the Ghurka evolution is design. Simeon Turnbull, a former designer at Mulberry, was hired as creative director of Ghurka last year. He’s made it a point to fuse fashion and utility in all of the designs. Most bags have cell phone pockets and PDA holders.
The bags range in style from classic carryalls to fashionable clutches. The Naomi bag, a slouchy hobo style with multiple flap and zip pockets, is updated with metallic leather trim and whipstitching. The Kalahari collection is based on African details such as authentic bovine horn, chunky hand stitching and knotted, multicord straps. Wholesale prices for the handbags range from $200 to $500 and luggage wholesales for $495 to $800.
Classic styles from the Original collection, like the Ashley II, a popular backpack style, will be carried through each season and updated for Ghurka loyalists. Each bag of this collection is numbered so the owner can register the bag.
“When I came aboard, I tried buying Ghurka [bags] on eBay for research but kept getting outbid,” said Landis. “Ghurka customers are very loyal.”
A print and outdoor advertising campaign will support the brand’s new look. Mipam Thurman, brother of actress Uma Thurman, is featured in the men’s ad, and model Carmen Maria is in the women’s. The campaign, executed by ModCo, the firm that creates ads for Carolina Herrera, bows this month in select national magazines as well as regional print media.
The Ghurka Web site was relaunched this month, showcasing and selling spring offerings.
Ghurka also has stores in Chicago, San Francisco and at the Woodbury Common Premium Mall in Central Valley, N.Y. The company had a retail location on 57th Street in Manhattan, but closed it upon the opening of its new flagship.
Landis said that there are no bounds for Ghurka, and that he and Chehebar are looking to expand it, as well as the luxury sector of ANG.
“We’re continuously looking at brands that are underdeveloped, but have a good reputation and good customer following,” Chehebar added.