Martine Sitbon, a stalwart of the Paris fashion scene and a former Chloé designer, knows the winds of change. After all, as she prepares to revive her business, which closed two years ago after a snafu with her Korean shareholder, she has the support of a new backer and is launching a brand, called Rue du Mail.
But, even as she revels in fresh élan, she also is remaining true to her long-held sensibility for soft, feminine romance tempered with a tough-rock edge.
Only this time, it’s a purer, more distilled version that she will showcase during fashion week. Her show is scheduled for March 2 at the Couvent des Cordeliers.
“The time off was an opportunity to reflect on my style, put myself into perspective and to push my ideas in new directions,” explained Sitbon. “I’ve updated my mood for today.”
Named after the address of her headquarters on the Right Bank, Rue du Mail (Sitbon’s prior partner still owns her name) is being bankrolled by Hong Kong investor Jimmy Chan, 33, who has a history in retail and owns two Evisu shops in Hong Kong.
Former Yohji Yamamoto European head Yasuo Umetada has been hired as president. His goal is to gain between 60 and 100 retail accounts for the debut season.
With financial support and experienced management, Sitbon feels confident. Projects for the near future include a store in her new Rue du Mail base (it’s scheduled to open in July) and an accessories collection for next year.
Meanwhile, she is focused on putting the finishing touches on a collection that she said juxtaposed sharp daywear with couture-style cocktail dresses.
“The daywear is very structured,” said Sitbon as she pointed to an ivory cotton and wool pantsuit with cape-like sleeves.
“The clothes are very feminine,” she continued, “but they can be tough. A collar can be worn high, for instance, or turned down to make the coat much softer. There are no asymmetric details and the silhouettes are quite graphic.”
There are plenty of intricate flourishes, including delicate embroidery, and organic-themed prints, including variations on flowers and butterflies.
Related Articles
You May Also Like
“There’s a bit of a Sixties couture feeling, but it’s a little darker. I wanted the clothes to have a certain mystery to them,” said Sitbon. “These are luxurious clothes, but clothes that are also modern and understated. I don’t want them to scream a brand name. That’s not my client.”