LONDON — London Fashion Week might not have had big designer debuts this season like Milan and Paris, but it did have its first season under Laura Weir, the newly appointed chief executive officer of the British Fashion Council.
And, if buyers’ reactions to the shows are any indication, it was a good start.
Buyers were moved by the city’s youthful energy and daring show formats, from Dilara Findikoglu’s show at the Ironmonger’s Hall in Barbican to Erdem’s takeover of the British Museum.
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Many retailers pointed to the romanticism coming out of the city from Roksanda, Erdem and Simone Rocha. Other collections they praised included Daniel Lee’s Burberry lineup, Dilara Findikoglu and Conner Ives.
Here, buyers discuss some of the week’s highlights.
Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying and merchandising officer, Net-a-porter
Favorite collection: I really loved both Simone Rocha and Erdem.
Best show format: Erdem. He has shown at the British Museum for the last few seasons, and while the venue has become familiar, his use of different spaces within it continues to impress us every season.
Top trends: Micro floral prints, sheer dresses and intricate embellishments.
Must-have pieces: I’ve always regretted missing out on the first look of Erdem’s spring 2024 collection and I won’t make the same mistake this season. The coat from Erdem’s spring 2026, look 19, is now firmly at the top of my wish list.
Impressions of the week: The opening of the newly revamped JW Anderson store was a highlight; it’s great to see brands evolving and take into consideration other disciplines, particularly at home here in London. I loved the curation of ceramics.
Bosse Myhr, director of menswear, womenswear and childrenswear buying, Selfridges
Favorite collection: Simone Rocha and Erdem stood out for their balance of creativity and commercial strength. Both delivered collections with depth, but also with pieces that will translate well to our clients.
Best show format: Dilara Findikoglu and Chopova Lowena impressed with immersive, high-energy presentations that highlighted the personality of their brands and created real moments of excitement.
Top trends: Craftsmanship was the strongest thread this season — elaborate dresses, beautiful detailing, and an emphasis on construction. Muted tones, particularly black and white, offered a sharp and versatile counterbalance.
Must-have pieces: Simone Rocha’s sculptural cushion look, Dilara’s statement dress, and the purple leather jacket from Mains by Skepta all felt directional and covetable.
Budgets up or down: We’re approaching the season with confidence. Budgets remain stable, with flexibility to invest further where we see standout products and strong commercial opportunities.
New talent: Pauline Dujancourt is a name to watch; her work shows promise and individuality.
Impressions of the week: London felt electric, a dynamic mix of established houses and younger voices, reflecting the city’s unique diversity and creative energy.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president and fashion director, Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus
Favorite collection: Simone Rocha and her twist on feminine dressing felt rebellious but also really beautiful and Erdem’s homage to Helene Smith, a Swiss medium. He showed a delicate and romantic mix of pretty florals, lace, antiqued jacquard, mixed in with corsets and lace-up skirts.
Tove’s take on minimalism felt fresh with the easy draping, soft fringe and layers. Harris Reed and Richard Quinn have brought the glamour of evening and couture back to London Fashion Week.
Top trends: Femininity was in the air with the influence of the Victoria & Albert Museum’s “Marie Antoinette Style” exhibition. Rebellious and playful at Simone Rocha, polished and elegant at Erdem. Siren-like at Dilara Findikoglu. Fringe seen at Burberry, Tove and Roksanda. Sport translations from anoraks at Conner Ives and rugby shirts at Chopova Lowena.
New talent: Conner Ives, Paolo Carzana and Tolu Coker.
Impressions of the week: London Fashion Week continued to have its independent spirit of new ideas and creativity without limitations.
Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Chopova Lowena delivered a high-energy show that perfectly captured the spirit of their community. This season’s update on the Burberry trench packed a punch with color and fringe. Simone Rocha staged a playfully sensual show, pairing feminine bra tops with full skirts.
Best show format: CompletedWorks’ immersive show brought together the designer’s community and collaborators in a unique way, inviting the audience to explore key themes in the brand’s jewelry.
Top trends: The sunny yellows of Emilia Wickstead to the neon pinks of Conner Ives. Crochet lace gowns and colorful embroidery at Erdem, feather flourishes at Roksanda and charming ruffles and scallop hems at Simone Rocha. Bra tops balanced by flowing, full skirts at Simone Rocha, Chopova Lowena and Emilia Wickstead.
New talent: Johanna Parv.
Impressions of the week: This season marks a new chapter with Laura Weir at the helm as CEO and we can already feel her impact and energy taking shape.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Burberry, Erdem and Simone Rocha.
Best show format: We always love to see Erdem at the British Museum. Paolo Carzana’s show in the British Library was also a highlight. Burberry continues to showcase collections in London’s best green spaces.
Top trends: Erdem and Simone Rocha leaned into Victorian silhouettes, corsetry and surrealist details like sculpted hip cages. Head-to-toe white, with many designers opening their shows in monochromatic white looks.
Must-have pieces: Burberry’s lacquered trenchcoats, particularly the denim version. Erdem’s Victorian lace blouses and floral-embroidered oversized barn jacket. Simone Rocha’s white tailored jacket layered over a crystal sequined bralette.
New talent: Paolo Carzana and Dilara Findikoglu.
Impressions of the week: Laura Weir’s vision for the British Fashion Council could be felt. The schedule was rich with a sense of community and celebration.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Erdem, Burberry and Simone Rocha.
Top trends: Romanticism in organic and artistic draping. Lingerie, corsetry and florals.
New talent: Pauline Dujancourt, Talia Byre and Patrick McDowell.
Impressions of the week: The optimism and creativity in London in the macro-climate is impressive and invigorating.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa
Favorite collection: Simone Rocha, Dilara Findikoglu and Erdem.
Best show format: A special mention goes to the dinner hosted by JW Anderson, it was a warm, thoughtful way to set the tone for the week, reminding me how London thrives on the connection between designers, press and buyers.
Top trends: There was a clear romantic influence — almost a Marie Antoinette effect, which felt timely given the exhibition at the V&A. Designers brought back drama, but in a way that felt more wearable than theatrical.
Must-have pieces: The Simone Rocha puffy skirt and pillow. The shearling boots from the Talia Byre x Ugg collaboration.
New talent: Aaron Esh was a standout this season — his collection felt both sophisticated and raw, striking that balance of refinement with grit that only London seems to cultivate.
Impressions of the week: The overall mood was uplifting and optimistic — a true turning point for the city.
Reece Crisp, buying and creative director, LNCC
Favorite collection: Chopova Lowena was a highlight for me.
Best show format: I enjoyed Leuder and her set design.
Top trends: I think a lot of what we have seen is very much designers doing what they do, which was nice to see.
Must-have pieces: The Louther Carhartt pieces, delicious.
New talent: Louther was a standout for me.
Kate Benson, chief merchant, Harvey Nichols
Favorite collection: Simone Rocha
Best show format: Roksanda’s 20th anniversary show in the newly converted Chancery Rosewood felt like it was the appropriate level of grandeur for such an important celebration.
Top trends: Neon colors shown at Simone Rocha, Erdem and Tove.
Must-have pieces: Tuxedo jackets at Erdem and Simone Rocha.
Budgets up or down: Up.
New talent: Johanna Parv and Aaron Esh.
Impressions of the week: It was really exciting to see the energy at London Fashion Week ramping up under Laura Weir’s leadership.
Simon Longland, director of fashion buying, Harrods
Favorite collections: Roksanda, Erdem and Burberry.
Top trends: Sculptural tailoring to romantic craftsmanship to youth-driven festival references.
Best show format: Erdem’s presentation at the British Museum was a landmark moment.
Must-have pieces: Standout gowns at Roksanda, refined yet powerful tailoring at Emilia Wickstead and romantic, wearable separates at Simone Rocha.
Ones to watch: Patrick McDowell and Priya Ahluwalia.
Impressions of the week: The schedule reflected Laura Weir’s focus on reinforcing London’s unique position: a stage for both established British names and international houses looking to harness the city’s creative energy.
Terry Betts, chief buying and merchandising officer, End.
Favourite collections: Tolu Coker and Ahluwalia, which we are excited to launch for spring 2026.
Best show format: Labrum and Tolu Coker both connected with our teams in a way that we know will also resonate with our customers.
Top trends: A move away from minimalism and a return to colour and layering felt so right.
Budgets up or down: Up, our womenswear has such positive momentum right now.
New talent: Johanna Parv, Servc and Lueder.
Impressions of the week: Celebrating the inimitable Lulu Kennedy and 25 years of Fashion East was a moment.