MILAN — Renzo Rosso breezed through New York for his Diesel fashion show last week, bringing along a battery of intriguing rumors and reports on his business holdings, including the possible acquisition of Viktor & Rolf and a potential change in his production deal with Dsquared.
The ambitious Italian entrepreneur is said to be in advanced talks with Dutch design stars Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren to acquire all or part of their business — a deal that could be motivated in part by the potential future defection of Dsquared designers Dean and Dan Caten, possibly to Italian manufacturer Aeffe SpA. The Catens acknowledged they have been in discussions with Aeffe on an unspecified manufacturing agreement, but denied they have any plans to exit their Diesel deal.
Related Articles
Rosso said no deal for Viktor & Rolf had been consummated, but did not directly deny he was in negotiations for the company, which is half owned by Horsting and Snoeren, and half by Italian manufacturer Gibò.
You May Also Like
“We are looking around, we are seeing what is going on in the market, but it’s not true that we are in a deal,” said Rosso.
A spokeswoman for the Dutch design duo denied any deal had been completed, saying: “All the rumors and speculation involving any acquisition of Viktor & Rolf by Renzo Rosso of Diesel are completely untrue and unsubstantiated.”
Rosso, whose Only the Brave holding company posted sales of $1.4 billion last year, added, “In the past, people said that I bought Helmut Lang or Jil Sander. Every time they want something on the market, they use my name. I am very concentrated on developing Diesel and Martin Margiela. I have a lot to do there.”
Curiously, that last statement did not include Dsquared, the designer brand that Rosso’s Staff International division has rights to manufacture and distribute under an agreement that runs through 2011. Relations between the Catens and Rosso have been reportedly rocky at times, and the Dsquared twins could jump ship to another manufacturing and distribution company, if a firm was willing to buy out the contract from Staff.
Rosso denied there was any possibility of Dsquared’s leaving Staff in the foreseeable future. “We are happy and we have developed a very good situation for them. We have five more years left in our deal.”
Under Staff International, the Dsquared label has flourished, growing from 3 million euros in annual sales in 2000 to 70 million euros, or about $83 million, in 2005. Most recently, Dsquared signed a multiyear fragrance license with Italy-based ICR, with the first scent set to drop next year, along with the opening of the first Dsquared store in Milan.
But Rosso noted of the agreement with the Catens: “It’s up to them. They have to choose what they like. I can only do the best that I can.”
The Catens denied any impending departure from the Staff International umbrella. “We have absolutely no plans to break contract with Staff International,” said Dan Caten.
He acknowledged, however, that Dsquared has been in discussions with Aeffe SpA about a manufacturing agreement of some sort. “There will be a future venture with Aeffe,” he said, declining to elaborate.
Sources in Milan speculated on any number of possible deals that capitalize on Aeffe’s production prowess: from high-end women’s apparel to luxury footwear, courtesy of its Italian accessories company, Pollini, which it acquired in 2000. Currently Dsquared women’s shoes are produced under license to Vicini and men’s footwear by Galizio Torresi.
An Aeffe spokeswoman in Milan said there was “nothing to communicate” regarding Dsquared. If Aeffe were to land Dsquared licenses for shoes and fashion collections, it would add another high-profile brand to its roster of designer labels. The company owns controlling interests in Alberta Ferretti, Moschino, Pollini and Velmar. Additionally, the group has manufacturing and distribution agreements with Jean Paul Gaultier, Narciso Rodriguez, Basso & Brooke, Sinha-Stanic and Authier.