PARIS — After engineering a rapid renaissance at the house of Loris Azzaro, designer Vanessa Seward, known for her ultra glamorous evening confections, is spearheading the second phase of the brand’s development.
Those ambitions come courtesy of the brand’s new owner, Reig Capital, the Andorra-based private equity firm that purchased Azzaro last year with the intention of transforming its buzz into cash by broadening its retail reach and adding lucrative product categories.
“I believe that [Azzaro] can be a 100 million euro brand just in ready-to-wear and accessories,” said Sagra Maceira de Rosen, who heads Reig’s luxury and retail division. Though Maceira de Rosen declined to provide sales figures, sources estimated Azzaro sales last year were around $5 million.
Outlining for the first time her ambitious strategy for the house, Maceira de Rosen, a former luxury analyst with JP Morgan in London, said Reig was committed “to develop the Azzaro business in the long term, supporting its growth financially and strategically.”
One of the formative moves is to shore up the recently launched luxury shoe collection. A group of small decorative items for the hair will be introduced for fall, pointing to further development of accessories.
At the upcoming jewelry and watch show in Basel, Switzerland, for instance, Azzaro will launch its first jewelry line, done under license with Gay Freres, a jeweler known for working with many of Paris’ top houses. Maceira de Rosen said she would target increased retail distribution by opening directly owned or franchised boutiques in “key international fashion markets” such as New York; Los Angeles; Saint-Tropez, France; Madrid and Marbella, Spain; Milan; Moscow, and Dubai. Maceira de Rosen said an Azzaro boutique could open in London by 2008. Presently, the firm runs only a Paris shop.
“Retail expansion is one of the key strategic avenues for development at Azzaro,” said Maceira de Rosen. “We are big fans of retail, as it is the part of the business with the highest long-term value addition and where a brand can exert full control of the environment.”
Other initiatives include expanding international wholesale with in-store shops and corners in key luxury retailers; increasing its U.S. and Asian presence, and launching in Japan; widening the ready to wear from its core evening dresses to include more daywear, and widening price ranges; launching accessories, eyewear and watches; developing a women’s fragrance with Azzaro’s beauty partner, Clarins, and, potentially, a line of makeup, and licensing select categories, such as lingerie, beachwear and bridal.
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“If properly developed, [Azzaro] could eventually have a very wide audience,” said Maceira de Rosen, who added that she was committed to Seward playing a crucial role in how the brand is grown.
“I adore Vanessa,” said Maceira de Rosen. “She really was the key reason for our investment in Azzaro. We really see eye to eye in all the critical, strategic issues….Clearly Vanessa has been and continues to be the driving force of Azzaro.”
After years working in the studios at Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, Seward joined Azzaro four years ago, not long before house founder Loris Azzaro died. She modernized some of the elderly designer’s iconic dresses, including a striking body-hugging dress with three bejeweled rings at the bust, and then started to develop a palette of her own. Understated sophistication with a touch of shadowy sex appeal is her trademark style.
Also key to her success has been outfitting Hollywood stars in her slinky gowns. With the help of Cameron Silver, who runs the vintage store Decades in Los Angeles, Azzaro’s red carpet devotees now include Nicole Kidman, Penélope Cruz, Mischa Barton and Audrey Toutou, who wears Azzaro throughout the new French film “Hors de Prix.”
Despite the star attention, Seward remains grounded, realistic in her ambitions and respected for her hard work.
Since Reig came on board, Seward, who was born in Argentina, has found long-awaited support. She’s finally hired several new hands in the studio, and the house is looking to hire a chief executive. A decision is expected within the next few months.
Though Seward looks forward with anticipation to the brand’s future, she insisted that she wanted to conserve an authentic flavor. “I don’t want to become just another brand,” she said. “The challenge is to keep the charm and the house spirit alive.”
For instance, even as Seward, who makes a cameo appearance in her friend Julie Delpy’s new film, “Deux Jours à Paris,” aims to broaden the ready to wear offering, she said she wanted to crystallize the style around high glamour.
“I don’t know how to do casual,” joked the designer, who is often seen in jeweled cocktail dresses at noon. “What I do want to do is introduce very sophisticated daywear.”
After all, her attachment to Azzaro has deep roots. “My mother worked in the Azzaro shop in Paris in the Eighties. I used to see Mr. Azzaro in the magazines. He had these movie-star good looks. He was amazing.”
Maceira de Rosen has similar praise for Seward, whose contract was just renewed. “For me, Vanessa and Azzaro is a match made in heaven,” she said. “Look how many houses have struggled to find the right designer. It is the first ingredient for success in the world of luxury.”