MILAN — It’s not every day you see key figures of the Camera della Moda’s Strategy Committee all in the same room warmly greeting each other with hugs and air kisses and catching up on the latest news — all in front of an international group of journalists there to hear a discussion about the protection of Made in Italy production.
But that is exactly what happened Wednesday morning at Casa Cipriani, where the lineup on the velvet green sofas was impressive, ranging from Luigi Maramotti, Renzo Rosso and Remo Ruffini to Alfonso Dolce, Gildo Zegna and Lorenzo Bertelli, all flanking Carlo Capasa, head of the Camera.
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“They are the heart of our decision-making and in a time of deep division in the world, fashion can give a positive message,” said Capasa, highlighting the united front of the executives. “We don’t want fashion to go out of fashion,” and he solicited ways to work “on the positives,” and foster an exchange of points of view. “We want to restore centrality to the industry, creativity is a cost, but it is our strength and makes us different from the other industries.”
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“I think that we are ethical, we are serious, we have an immense know-how that starts from very far away. Many of the houses are more than 100 years old and are still controlled by families, and we want to make sure to defend what our [forefathers] have built and create a better future,” said Gildo Zegna, chairman and chief executive officer of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, responding to a forward-looking question.
The Italian group, which controls the Zegna, Thom Browne and Tom Ford Fashion brands, has over the years built is own vertical supply chain, acquiring or investing in small and medium-sized companies. “I think that without the know-how that we have created in so many years, we wouldn’t be here. So I think that the Italian know-how is to be defended and is to be propelled thanks to innovation and thanks to creativity. The market is very big. We have to be ready for ups and downs,” Zegna said.
He took the time to say that the committee represents the web of companies that are the backbone of Italy’s fashion industry, admitting that the support of the Camera and its members is key to help keep this network from disappearing.
“I think that this is a very complicated, articulated system that probably has touched bottom, and I think it will be up again. Personally, I’m concerned about the currencies. We talk about [U.S.] tariffs, but I think that if tariffs stay at the level [they are], we can manage,” he said. On the other hand, the “disruption” of foreign exchange rates should lead brand to avoid increasing their prices, he contended. “I think the pricing situation should be monitored. And I think that only by full control of the supply chain we can do that.”
He ended his views by expressing positivity. “We feel strong. We feel united. We need your support,” turning to the press gathered at the venue. “And I think that if private and public work together, the Italian system can make it. I also want to express, on a personal note, my gratitude to what Mr. [Giorgio] Armani did. I think he has been our maestro, our god, if you want, that stimulated us to new heights. I personally worked with him for 10 years and it was a fantastic experience, so let’s think about how he overcome the difficulties.”
Rosso, founder and chairman of OTB, underscored the importance of creativity for his group, which controls the Diesel, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela and Marni brands. “I am very proud of our creativity, that’s really where I push, and I spend so much time to see every contest around the world and to discover young creatives out of school because through creativity, you can create a desire, you can create a dream. Otherwise, it’s just a product, and so creativity is one pillar.”
He said he was very proud of the group’s sustainability pillar, because almost 55 percent of OTB’s production is sustainable. “The young generations say they want a better world, and this is the only way in the future for a brand. Another pillar is the technology, but I think everybody is going in this direction, and I am very proud to really invest a lot of my time and energy in technology,” citing AI as a tool to improve business.
He concluded by saying that the other key pillar is helping people in need through the OTB Foundation, even more so today, which he described as “a disaster. When you see the news, what is going on in the world, it’s unbelievable.” This negativity also leads to limited traffic in stores. Also, he urged the press to focus on “positive news,” rather than seeking click-baiting negative headlines.
While upholding freedom of expression, Bertelli, Prada Group’s head of corporate social responsibility, pointed to “inequality” as “the biggest problem and threat to the luxury industry.”
Maramotti, chairman of Max Mara Fashion Group, concurred. “Consumers are confused, and while we talk about sustainability, Europe is left alone, with many countries going in other directions. It’s important to value what you see, and it’s easy to make news out of scandals.” The press, he argued, should be mindful “of the thousands of people” that work in this industry and “support the fashion industry. Without this industry, there would be no fashion.”
This led to a thorny topic that has made international news and that was brought up during the meeting, following recent cases of alleged worker exploitation, abuse and sweatshop schemes in the Italian fashion supply chain.
As reported, Loro Piana has been linked to sweatshop subcontractors and Dior, the Armani Group, Valentino and Alviero Martini had been put under judicial administration, with the former two brands’ probes fully resolved. Once again, Capasa defended the country’s high-end fashion supply chain and said the Camera is currently working with the Ministry of Enterprises and Made in Italy to map out a law to address and regulate this issue, “the basis to save this industry.”
“As much as it shouldn’t exist entirely, the illegal supply chain is confined to a small portion,” he said, citing reports from the National Institute for Statistics, or ISTAT, which state that the sector allegedly employs illegally about 30,000 workers, compared to a total workforce of 600,000 people across its industrial operations. That is an amount far below other industries, as subcontractor suppliers contribute to just 2 to 3 percent of the high-end fashion production in the country, Capasa said.