Elevating Cotton With Innovations That Surpass Synthetic Performance

Synthetic fibers — such as polyester, nylon, spandex and acrylic — account for about two-thirds of textile products today. Although these materials are often associated with fast-fashion brands, they are prevalent at every tier of the fashion industry.

The popularity of man-made, polymer-based materials comes at a steep environmental cost: rampant plastic pollution. A study by a leading environmental consulting firm and Cotton Incorporated found that the apparel value chain contributes plastic leakage equivalent to the weight of 820 Eiffel Towers annually — representing 12.3 percent of global plastic leakage.¹ During laundering, synthetic garments release microplastic particles that flow into waterways and remain in the environment. At the end of their life cycle, these materials persist in landfills and natural settings and can cause harm to the environment.²

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“Garments made from polyester and other synthetic materials shed microplastics into the environment during use and contribute to macroplastic pollution at the end of their life cycle, exacerbating global plastic pollution challenges,” said Jesse Daystar, chief sustainability officer at Cotton Incorporated.

Consumers are catching on to the impact synthetics leave behind, with 45 percent of those in a Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor survey saying they are aware of the clothing microfiber issue.³ As consumer attention toward microplastics grows and brands seek to lower their products’ life cycle impacts, cotton offers an opportunity to get the same performance properties that are associated with synthetics, but in a biodegradable fabrication.

Cotton has inherent material qualities including breathability, absorbency and durability. Building on these ingrained performance benefits, Cotton Incorporated’s in-house team researches and develops innovative solutions to enhance cotton garments and textiles.

“As consumers and brands increasingly demand more sustainable options, cotton’s natural properties provide an attractive alternative to synthetics,” said Mark Messura, senior vice president, Cotton Incorporated. “By focusing on moisture management, temperature regulation and durability, Cotton Incorporated proves that cotton can deliver the same — if not superior — performance as synthetic materials, all while offering a more sustainable alternative.”

Synthetics are often used for water-resistant attire, such as raincoats. Cotton Incorporated’s Storm Cotton technology is a long-lasting durable water repellant finish for cotton that repels moisture, allowing cotton to be used for knit and woven weather-resistant gear, including denim.

Another solution, Tough Cotton technology, is a finish that enhances the durability of cotton garments, making them stronger and more resistant to abrasion. For instance, it can help childrenswear stay intact through playground tumbles or make cotton a trusted fabric for rock climbing.

Activewear is frequently made from synthetics, but Cotton Incorporated’s 2022 Global Activewear Study found that 70 percent of consumers prefer athletic attire that is made from natural materials like cotton. Simultaneously, 79 percent seek out moisture management.⁴ Helping on both these fronts, Wicking Windows technology is a solution that can be printed on the interior of garments to pull moisture away from the wearer so that it evaporates quicker. This makes garments more comfortable, reducing clinging that can lead to chafing and keeping the individual cool and dry.

Another activewear-ready solution is TransDry technology, in which fabrics are created with hydrophobic and hydrophilic yarns to create channels for the movement of moisture, bringing cotton’s moisture wicking performance in line with other competitive fibers in the market. Fabrics with this treatment can be constructed so that moisture moves to the outside of garments.

Building on cotton’s inherent breathability, textiles can also be made into mesh fabrications for even more air permeability. Mesh fabrics can be treated with other technologies. For instance, Storm Cotton-treated mesh combines an airy feel with water repellence.

Helping cotton resist wrinkles, Purepress technology can be applied to create comfortable, wrinkle-free clothing. The solution uses formaldehyde-free crosslinking resins to help cotton garments — such as men’s dress shirts — retain their shape and resist rumples, while adding strength and abrasion resistance.

When designers want to add stretch, the conventional choice is spandex. Natural Stretch technology offers a natural alternative, allowing woven pieces like denim to have give without using synthetic elastomeric yarns. This process removes some of the steps in fabric engineering that can reduce cotton’s elasticity, such as heat-setting.

Cotton Incorporated is continually researching and developing new performance technologies. Retailers, brands and mills have carte blanche to rename the solutions to fit their branding.

In addition to material developments, Cotton Incorporated creates fabric designs and samples on knitting and weaving machines at its North Carolina headquarters. It shares these open-source fabric recipes with the industry via the ever-expanding online Fabricast library. As digital design has grown, Cotton Incorporated has integrated many of its Fabricast fabrics onto 3D platforms CLO and Browzwear, making it easier for product developers to work with these textiles virtually.

“It’s crucial for Cotton Incorporated to provide tools like Fabricast and 3D digital fabric files because they help the industry stay at the forefront of innovation while also embracing the benefits of cotton,” Messura said. “These tools streamline the product development process, offering designers, brands and manufacturers access to an evolving library of cotton-rich fabrics in both digital and physical formats. This ensures that cotton remains a relevant and competitive material in an ever-evolving fashion and textile landscape.”

Discover how CottonWorks can help you design and develop apparel with cotton. What will you create?