Head to the shelves of your local Sephora and you’ll find shelves dedicated to pore care products. From a slew of acids, designed to slough off dead skin cells, to masks that help draw and absorb oil, the sheer array can be overwhelming. What actually works and what’s marketing hype? Can you inflict damage on your face if you’re too overzealous? And most importantly, why is everyone so obsessed with the idea of achieving smooth, poreless skin? To help parse through it all, Shereene Idriss M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Idriss Dermatology in New York City, helps break it down.
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Like so many skin care products, separating claims from reality is tricky. “Pore care has become this massive umbrella term, and honestly, the industry loves that because it means they can sell you a lot of [stuff.] But let’s be clear: you cannot shrink your pores. Their size is largely genetic. What you can do is make them appear smaller by keeping them clean, clear, and uncongested,” explained Idriss. That means a course of action that targets everything from blackheads to excess sebum production to sebaceous filaments, the thin threads that tend to pop up on your nose, to even redness, which can cause skin to swell, enhancing the appearance of pores.
Once the primary concern is identified, Idriss recommends looking for key ingredients that target the issue in question. “If you’re oily with blackheads, you want salicylic acid — it’s oil-soluble, meaning it can actually penetrate deep into the pore and dissolve the buildup from the inside out. Pair that with a retinol, which is a vitamin A derivative that speeds up cell turnover, keeps pores clear, and over time trains them to produce less congestion,” advised Idriss. She’s a fan of Paula’s Choice or Farmacy’s 2% salicylic acid products while those with more sensitivity can look to mandelic acid based serums like the one by Sofie Pavitt. Should sebaceous filaments be an issue, sulfur-based products that absorb excess oil and have a mild antimicrobial effect like De La Cruz sulfur ointment from the drugstore is ideal. Reddened complexions can benefit from azelaic acid and capryloyl glycine, both of which feature in Idriss’ Left Un-Red Reducer serum, a product in her own skin care line. And finally for those with dry skin, “glycolic acid is your go-to. It dissolves dead cells on the surface, smooths texture, and helps clear out whatever’s sitting in those pores.” Her favorite is the Major Fade Flash mask, also a part of her line.
One caveat for those seeking to dive into pore care, Idriss warns to not overdo it. “Using a salicylic acid cleanser, a glycolic acid toner, and retinol all in the same routine, every single night — that’s too much. Not everyone needs every active, and even if you do, they don’t all need to happen at once. Keep your exfoliating acids and your retinol on separate nights.”