PARIS — Bold lip color took center stage on a number of Paris catwalks during the spring 2024 ready-to-wear season.
“The overall vision for the makeup at Schiaparelli SS24 was to showcase gorgeous interpretations of modern glamour,” said makeup artist Pat McGrath.
“When speaking with creative director Daniel Roseberry, the idea was to give a nod to the fantasy of the ‘80s, but in a fresh, new way,” she continued. “And to me, a bold red lip is always iconic and the ultimate representation of glamour.”
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McGrath said it was “major to incorporate a bold mouth with a subtle, yet seductive smoky eye.” For the look, she applied her signature brand’s MatteTrance lipstick in Forbidden Love as the base color all over lips, then using a finger, she pressed Obsessed lipstick on to the center of lips for a multidimensional effect.
“The main focus of this look is this legendary red lip. Painting and layering these two iconic shades culminated an exquisite, couture-inspired shape,” said McGrath. “I can’t wait to see everyone wearing their own version of this look. This bold, statement mouth is timeless and gorgeous for any season.”
Bold lips were in the spotlight at Chloé, too.
“Gabriela Hearst’s Chloé SS24 collection was an exploration of the sacred geometry of flowers. This immediately made me think of creating a ‘flower mouth’ that was both bold in its vibrancy yet soft and velvety in appearance — like flower petals,” said makeup artist Fara Homidi, referring to the brand’s outgoing designer. “In contrast, a few models who didn’t have a lip look wore a thick black liner, slightly rounded on the ends to add some strength and grounding to the overall beauty.”
Homidi used her signature brand’s makeup — Essential Lip Compact in Red 1, which she described as buildable, with its poppy-orange undertone. “I used a fluffy brush to intensify from the inner mouth outwards, blending over the natural lip line to achieve a softly blurred mouth,” she said. “The trick is to only use what’s left on the brush when blending outwards, so there isn’t too much product on it by the time you get to the outer edges of the lips.
“The fluffy, blurred finish is a fresh take on a traditional red mouth, which tends to be stricter and more serious,” she said. “I see this lip as an optimistic red mouth that is perfect for spring-summer.”
For Mossi, makeup artist Marcello Costa brought out models’ natural rosy lip color by using L’Oréal Paris color cosmetics. “We used a L’Oréal gloss and lip liner to add color and a light shine to the lips,” he said. “This is a look that a girl should be able to use every day. In every look I create, I try to be as relatable as possible, so it can be pulled from the runway straight to the streets.”