Standout launches abound for spring makeup, with customizable color, ingredients that treat and charming dashes of whimsy dominating the best offerings.
URBAN DECAY offers a modern spin on big Seventies dewy eyes with the February launch of Cream Shadow. Co-founder and creative director Wende Zomnir says silicone technology keeps the shadow from flaking, smudging or wearing away. “It’s that supersexy vibe, but the improved formula doesn’t feel too moist or dried down,” she says. “Our customer loves eye shadow and we wanted to give her more options.” Available in 12 shades for $17 each, the waterproof, gel-based shadow is expected by industry sources to generate $5 million in retail sales for 2009.
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In April, French beauty brand YVES ROCHER will unveil Couleurs Nature, a 200-shade makeup line inspired by nature’s dynamic hues. “This launch is a new era in makeup for Yves Rocher,” says Judith Flateau, director of makeup. “The line truly embodies the brand’s DNA—that is to say, a makeup line with botanical beauty at heart.” Ranging in price from $7 for a nail lacquer to $32 for a brush-on illuminator, the range contains a high concentration of natural raw materials and ingredients such as bamboo powder, organic agave sap, wood cellulose, apricot oil and balsam resin. A botanical color chart, which classifies and identifies the shades in the range, was created to complement the line and can be accessed on the brand’s Web site come April. “We were inspired by the plant world as a source of extraordinary creation,” says Flateau.
Mascara brushes get a makeover with new launches from RIMMEL LONDON, BOURJOIS and TARTE. In January, Rimmel vamped up its lineup with the release of Sexy Curves Mascara, $15, a collagenenriched formula and brush with a perfect hourglass figure, said to curl and declump lashes. Bourjois’ Liner Effect Mascara, $15, launching in February, contains kohl and creates the look of eyeliner with an asymmetrical brush. “We’re a mascara brand known for innovation, and this gives you one less step in your beauty routine,” says Tracy Scott, director of marketing. Meanwhile, Tarte is launching its first-ever mascara made specifically for bottom lashes. Bottoms Up, formulated with mineral pigments and carnauba wax, has a short ergonomic brush and a flat shape for easy control. “It’s all about mascara wardrobing and creating great options for eyes,” says Maureen Kelly, chief executive officer and creator of Tarte. “Our mascara category has eclipsed our cheek stain as our best-selling category.” Bottoms Up will be available at Sephora, Bergdorf Goodman and Henri Bendel.
Makeup this spring explores the many sides of purple. From PRESCRIPTIVES’ flowery In Bloom Eye Color Duo to Chanel’s bold metallic nail lacquer called Vendetta, variations of eggplant hues abound. “Creating rich, dark nail polish shades fits in with the tradition of Chanel,” says Peter Phillips, global creative director of Chanel makeup and the brains behind Vendetta. “I like this shade of purple because it’s so intense.” GUERLAIN’s Ombré Eclat and LAURA MERCIER’s March Eye Colour launch show the softer (and slightly shimmery) side of purple, while ESTEE LAUDER’s Fuchsia Now spring color story presents a more pink-hued purple, along with complementary neutrals as a backdrop. “Purples can be hard to wear,” says Rick DiCecca, global makeup stylist for Lauder. “We’re doing neutrals with that pop of purple. Technology has allowed us to translate these bold colors in a more wearable, more feminine way.”
L’OREAL PARIS explores personal expression and customizable color with the launch of Color Presso Lip Gloss, the newest addition to its HIP High Intensity Pigments line. Available in 10 shades, the gloss comes in an interchangeable dual-chambered package, designed for blending colors. “The innovation comes not only from the nonsticky and nongreasy formula, but from the packaging, which is uniquely designed to use one shade at a time, both together or [with] the option of mixing the color pods from another duo,” says Anne Talley, senior vice president of marketing. Launching in February, Color Presso is priced at $13.
In February, the Italian fashion house DOLCE & GABBANA unveils The Makeup, a 110-stockkeeping-unit line inspired in part by the Mediterranean Sea, the Sicilian island of Stromboli and the designers’ favorite flower, the dahlia. “We see makeup as another thing for women, like a dress,” Stefano Gabbana told WWD. “We worked on the makeup line like we work on a clothing collection— you can change makeup like you can change your clothes, depending on your mood.” Actress Scarlett Johansson is the face of the line, which comes in heavy gold packaging and began its rollout in January in Milan. Licensee P&G Prestige Products also tapped its creative design director, makeup artist Pat McGrath, to collaborate on colors and products. Lipsticks in the range will feature a trademark rose scent, while peppery notes will enhance the mascara formulation. Ranging in price from $20 for a nail lacquer to $59 for a powder foundation, The Makeup is available in February at Selfridges and Saks Fifth Avenue and is expected to reach retail sales of $50 million in its first year.
CLINIQUE Redness Solutions Instant Relief Mineral Powder offers coverage while it purports to battle the very causes of redness. “This is the marriage between treatment and makeup,” says Yvette Valentine, vice president of global treatment marketing. At play in the calming formulation, which promises to treat and disguise redness, are extracts of grapefruit, magnolia bark, mushroom and vitamin E. The loose yellow powder, $32.50, is the sixth product in the Redness Solutions franchise and is sold with an antibacterial brush. “We’re building on our dermatological heritage and continuing to address consumer needs not being addressed in the prestige market,” says Valentine. Industry sources estimate that the February launch will ring up $20 million in 2009 retail sales.
Although MAC’s Studio Sculpt SPF Foundation only hits counters in February, it already has graced faces on fashion runways. “After three seasons of backstage testing, we proved a modern cream-gel foundation will work for our makeup artists and real women,” says Nick Gavrelis, vice president of global product development, face and pro. “We’ve wanted for years to address the cream foundation market, but we wanted to do it in a very modern way.” Studio Sculpt, which comes in a tube with a needle-nose applicator, features extracts of resurrection plant, shea butter and tamarind seed extract. “You can really control how you apply it,” says Gavrelis. “It can provide complete coverage or be more of a transparent look.” Industry sources expect Studio Sculpt, priced at $23, to generate $20 million globally in its first year.
In February, KANEBO is introducing Sensai Colours, a makeup line that promises hydration with extract of a Japanese silk once reserved for the imperial family. “Sensai Colours is moisturizing treatment makeup and koeshimo silk is the hero ingredient of the whole line,” says marketing manager Maiko Kitagawa. Japanese makeup artist Hisano Komine collaborated on the range, which was heavily influenced by the process of kimono layering. “There are 200 ways to layer a kimono,” says Kitagawa. “The line was made so it could be layered and the colors were inspired by colors on a kimono.” Ranging in price from $14 for a lip liner pencil to $50 for an eye shadow palette, Sensai Colours is expected to generate $1.5 million this year. “This color launch is the final stage of our transition from Kanebo to Sensai,” says Kitagawa.
CLE DE PEAU BEAUTE has added SPF, innovative new packaging and new ingredients to its March foundation launch, Cream Foundation SPF 18, $118, which will replace its Cream Foundation. “Foundation is one of our strongest categories,” says Gisela Ballard, director of marketing. “This one is fresh, modern, but still retains luxury and covers a broad range of consumer needs.” The enhanced formulation, which now includes moisturizing super bio-hyaluronic acid and green tea extract, is housed in a navy cylinder with a twist-up bottom. “One twist delivers exactly the right amount of foundation in the shape of the Clé de Peau key,” says Ballard. “It’s more hygienic because it’s airtight, and with the twist, no product is wasted. In these economic times, it’s about getting the most out of your product.”
ALMAY’s new Pure Blends line promises not to sacrifice color variety or performance in the name of healthy ingredients. “We are targeting a woman who wants natural products without the compromise of wear, finish or color range,” says Franz Klein, vice president of marketing. “Every product in the line is 95.8 to 98.2 percent natural.” Housed in sweetly designed, eco-friendly pastel packaging, the hypoallergenic, talc-free formulations feature a complex of fruit and flower extracts. Pure Blends, which began rolling out in January, consists of foundation, powder, blush/bronzer, eye shadow and lip gloss, ranging in price from $7.49 for an eye shadow to $13.99 for a foundation.
Lipstick, lip gloss and a portable mirror share space in MILANI’s latest, Pretty Pair. “Pretty Pair was created for a woman who’s on the go, whether she’s the soccer mom or the business woman,” says Ericka Molina, product development manager. “Pretty Pair is a modern take on lip color—customizable, convenient and a high-quality product.” Formulated with avocado oil, shea butter and jojoba seed oil, Pretty Pair, $7.99, is available in eight shades of reds, pinks and browns.
Poppy King can thank the heavens for the idea behind LIPSTICK QUEEN’s newest offering. Big Bang Theory-Illusion Gloss, inspired by scientists’ recent re-creation of the big bang, purports to plump without sting. “I don’t believe you need the stinging to make lips look fuller,” says King, creator of the line. “You can get the effect through the illusion of the right ratio of shimmer to shine.” King says that Big Bang, $20, has a very futuristic feel and offers a more sophisticated take on lip gloss. Available in eight shades with names like Space, Time and Infi nite, it launches in Henri Bendel, Barneys New York and Space NK in March.
In February, BOBBI BROWN launches a foundation created to mimic the look of healthy skin. Skin Foundation SPF 15, $45, uses suspension technology, reflective optics and micronized pigments for its lightweight full coverage. “The foundation is completely skin perfecting but is absolutely weightless,” says Sarah Robbins, vice president of product development. “It feels like a moisturizer but works like a foundation and wears all day.” Robbins adds that it also contains moisturizing glycerin and sodium hyaluronate.
Beauty brands are banking big on lipstick this spring, with no less than five lipstick launches slated for the first quarter. “We’ve seen a downward trend in lip color for several years,” says Karen Grant, NPD senior beauty industry analyst. “There is great opportunity for upwards momentum.” In February, SISLEY is launching its ultraglossy Phyto-Lip Shine, $50, formulated with mango butters and sugar esters, while Vivid Impact Lipcolor, $7.98, whose bright shades were designed by P&G global creative design director Pat McGrath, makes its debut as the newest addition to MAX FACTOR’s Vivid Impact line. February also will see the launch of SHISEIDO’s new Perfect Rouge, a line of 20 rich lip colors created by the brand’s artistic director, Dick Page, to sell for $25 each, and a new Rouge Hommage line from KEVYN AUCOIN that includes eight shades named after hit songs of female performers such as Janet Jackson, Barbra Streisand and Cher, $27 each. Meanwhile, in March, PHYSICIANS FORMULA will unveil its first organic plumping lipstick, Plump Potion, $9.95. “Brands are looking to find an area of play and color to draw in a consumer,” says Grant. “Elements of whimsy and nostalgia add novelty and fun.”
Inside the pretty pink applicator of TRISH MCEVOY’s Liquid Face Color is a fluid formulation that promises to provide a natural “walk in the park” glow. “I wanted a sheer wash of color with just the click of a pen,” says McEvoy. “Everyone looks better with a touch of brightness, and this applicator allows perfect placement of just the right amount of cheek color anytime, anywhere.” The lightweight pink-hued formula, $32, launching in February, can be worn alone or over makeup in lieu of blush. “This is our first liquid face color in a click pen,” says Jaclyn Shor, marketing coordinator for the line.