In Japanese culture, people want to be cute rather than edgy,” says Osaka-born Hiromi Ueda. The London-based makeup artist recently took a break from studying old movies, books and museums—her usual sources of inspiration—and hit the vibrant streets of Tokyo and Osaka. Her goal: to get a feel for the hottest beauty trends before dreaming up corresponding makeup looks of her own. “Even when they’re playing with a punk look, it has an element of sweetness, like the color pink mixed into the outfit,” says Ueda. From girly Goths to frothy Pepto-Bismol–hued princesses, Ueda snapped dozens of girls whose hair, makeup and fashion clearly indicated their trend allegiances. “They want to get attention and be different, but at the same time, they dress like each other,” she says. “They don’t want to stand out on their own, they want to be part of a group.”
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Kawaii Cute
Taking a cue from the bow-bedecked girls who hang out in Harajuku, whom she dubs Lolita Dolls, Ueda created a look using doll-like eyelashes and sparkling decals. “It’s quite over the top,” she says of the bedecked face. “Mascara on the bottom makes the look childlike.”
To Dye For
“In Tokyo, lots of girls wear lots of different colors in their clothes and makeup,” she says, noting hipsters focus less on the colors of the season and more on combining clashing hues. “When I came to London I was shocked that fashion was so dark in comparison.”
Pretty in Punk
Heavy eyeliner, red lips and long dark locks are Goth and punk staples. In Japan, girls soften the look with nonthreatening accents, such as flushed pink cheeks or oversize bows. Ueda focused on eyes for the look she calls “Sweet Punk.” “The broken black and gray lines mean that it’s not too punk or too Gothic,” she says.