As soon as a flacon of fragrance could set off alarms at airport security, some executives chose to view turbulent travel conditions as a boon rather than a bane.
Numerous cosmetics companies have begun offering travel-sized kits conforming to new security rules, which for five months have included restrictions on liquids-including scent, skin care and makeup-that must be in 100-ml. or smaller bottles and transported in re-sealable plastic bags. Such rules came into effect following an alleged terrorist plot to blow up planes flying from the U.K. to the U.S. in August 2006.
“The very first day, we realized it was going to be a nightmare for travelers,” said Jean-Michel Bostroem, vice president of brand and product development at L’Oréal.
“Immediately after the rules were announced, it became clear that there was complete confusion among travelers about what beautyrelated products were allowed on board,” added Allison Slater, vice president of retail marketing at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuittonowned Sephora perfumery chain.
Indeed, following the scare, airport trash cans overflowed with products confiscated because their containers were too large. And, while the present security regulations have been in place since November, many passengers are still unsure about what they’re permitted to take onboard planes and there is a lack of standard global regulations.
To help alleviate the befuddlement, L’Oréal introduced in March mini-sized beauty products with transparent security bags, featuring a prominent “Travel Sizes, Authorized on Board, All Destinations Worldwide” stamp for its Lancôme and Biotherm brands.
“We wanted to make it obvious it was authorized,” said Bostroem.
Similarly, in November, Sephora.com began selling products in bottles smaller than 88 millileters under a new “Airplane Approved” category, and brands such as Laura Mercier, Skyn Iceland and Tom Robinn have developed kits, as well.
There has been a surge of demand-up to even 50%-for such travel-sized cosmetics since November 2006, executives say.
“We had this influx, where we started to see more interest from travel stores to carry beauty [travel kits], and we picked up new accounts,” said Nikki Poirier, director of sales and training of Skyn Iceland. She added sales of the company’s Detox Kit, which contains a 30-ml. face wash, a 30-ml. face mist, a 15-ml. day lotion and a 14-g. night cream for $45 (?34/£23), increased 35% year-on-year as of November 2006.
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“The way [people who travel often] look at purchases has changed,” explained Poirier. “If they travel a lot, they look at products and think ‘I can’t take that with me, so I’m not going to buy that.’”
Manufacturers are paying close attention to business travelers, since they often carry on luggage. That can be particularly problematic for men, since shaving cream is generally sold in 200-ml. canisters.
Biotherm Homme took notice, and in March introduced its Day Tripper set containing basics for a short trip-a 30-ml. shower gel, a 50-ml. shaving cream and a 20-ml. anti-fatigue face concentrate, plus a see-through security bag, all for “15.
Similarly, Tom Robinn repackaged its Kit Weekend, containing 50- ml. tubes of shaving gel, of aftershave lotion and of cleansing gel, in a transparent case. Sales of the updated trio, which goes for ?23.80 since November 2006, spiked 50% in the month following its relaunch.
“A businessman cannot arrive at a meeting unshaven,” reasoned the company’s director, Francis Paoli.
Further, companies’ approaches to the types of products they put in their travel kits has changed.
“Kits [used to] contain products that a client didn’t necessarily use,” said Nica Lewis, cosmetics research consultant of Mintel tracking firm in London. “These latest mini-kits are designed for travel.”
They are generally easy to transport. “[They’re] now in transparent plastic bags already, so you don’t have to buy one,” said Lewis.
Companies are also offering small bottles for refillable beauty products. Lancôme’s Travel Essentials set, for example, contains 50- ml. flacons of refillable cleansing milk and toner, plus a 30-ml. Hydra Zen moisturizing cream. N.V. Perricone offers its Synergy Anti-Aging Aromatic product in a 25-ml. flacon and a 3-ml. travel edition.
To meet such evolving packaging demands, suppliers, including Valois, Rexam and Alcan, have updated their selection. “When we heard about the ban on large packages in airplanes, we obviously saw a very big opportunity for small-sized packaging,” said Hervé Bichon, Rexam Dispensing Systems’ global sales and marketing director.
“It has launched a new approach in the mini-product market,” added Jean-Jacques Ligny, manager of Valois’ sampling division, which promotes sample sizes (10 millileters and under) for travel kits.
And with the restrictions not likely to be lifted anytime soon, the beauty industry is experiencing a mini mania of sorts.
“When you see all the bottles and packages that are still being thrown out [in airports], there’s clearly a very strong need,” said Bichon. “We’re going to see it grow.”