Unlocking Fragrances
The mass market fragrance category has for years been a challenge for retailers. Years ago, drugstores in particular had sales ladies who could sample the latest perfumes on consumers. The Seventies ushered in self-service, and many of those associates dissipated like a top note.
When merchants started seeing bottles of perfume pilfered, the solution was a glass case. The problem was, a shopper wanting a bottle of the more expensive brands had to search the store for help to unlock the case. Buzzers were installed to summon help, but again the solution wasn’t perfect.
The next step was clamshells and other devices used in mass doors to cut down on theft of other expensive goods, such as DVDs. While effective, the clamshell deters from the presentation of the fragrance. Endemic to the self serve was also a lack of people able to sniff the scent before buying. Testers, even those tethered, also seemed to disappear.
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The two largest discounters are proving they don’t want to walk away from fragrance sales. Visits to Target and Wal-Mart prove executives want to work with suppliers to come up with valid methods to sell expensive perfumes without the benefit of sales assistance.
Target is testing what could be the best example in the mass market to date. In an area within its planograms often used for new programs, Target has an array of upscale scents merchandised with testers on top. The testers are harnessed into the display so they can’t be removed. However, the nozzles are available and positioned at eye level for sample. Beneath each tester are the actual products with security devices. To hammer home the point Target has prestige fragrances, there is a large sign in the department saying, “Why pay department store prices on your favorite fine fragrances?” The selection includes Britney Spears Circus, Viva La Juicy and Halle by Halle Berry.
Wal-Mart’s new beauty prototype, as seen in North Bergen, N.J., also has a large and varied fragrance department. To overcome the difficulties of sampling, many of the scents have a scratch and sniff sticker. There are several different forms of security from tags to clamshells, which are installed in the backroom, according to store officials. Fragrances are just one facet of a totally upgraded beauty department highlighted by wood floors and large graphics in Wal-Mart’s new look.
Coty, among others, is working on new tools to help retailers build the fragrance business. The fragrance leader is devising new displays, especially those that get the scents out into shoppers’ hands. The industry needs the boost and efforts such as these should just be the right potion.
People, Places and Things
A few words with Yolanda Halston, founder of Classified Cosmetics. As a makeup artist, Halston saw the ease of using aerosol formulas. When minerals entered the fray, she decided to merge the two technologies. The latest offering is designed for the mass market.
WWDBeautyNews: Why aerosol?
Yolanda Halston: I was encouraged to find makeup that would work with burned or damaged skin. The aerosol formula works because it adheres to skin. And I found it a good way to work with minerals because it avoids contamination. When you dip a brush into the minerals and put on your face, you are contaminating the makeup with say a breakout on your face.
WWDBeautyNews: How do you determine your skin tone?
Y.H.: We have in-store tools that women can match to their skin or you can go onto our Web site and insert what you are currently using and we give you our suggestion. It works very well. There are 10 shades that go from Cate Blanchett to Whoopi Goldberg in skin tones.
What’s In Store:
A.G. Lafley Joins Private Equity Firm: Former Procter & Gamble Co. chairman, president and chief executive officer A.G. Lafley has joined the firm of Clayton, Dubilier & Rice as a special partner.
It’s Official: Walgreen Co. has completed its acquisition of Duane Reade’s 258 stores, as well as the chain’s corporate office and two distribution centers.