As winter takes its toll on complexions around the world, our intrepid undercover shoppers are on a mission for skin care. Here, their inside accounts on the good, the bad and the just plain indifferent.
Paris, France
With combination skin aggravated by a freezing winter and intense indoor heating, I’ve been ending up on the dry side of where I want to be. Wrinkles are also, sadly, now my second obsession after blemishes. It’s a fine balance even in the best of weather. Could it be time for a change? Only one way to find out.…
Beauty Monop’
28 Rue Des Abbesses
Convenience and a democratic approach to style characterize both Monoprix and its beauty-only satellite, Beauty Monop’. Housing a range of brands (from dirt-cheap Le Petit Marseillais to fancy-pants Leonor Greyl), the store aims to be like a Marionnaud for the masses. Hence the hands-off approach to service, even for France, with only two dedicated staffers who mind the register, help customers and keep the place clean. But man, they keep the place clean. The store in my neighborhood is perennially shipshape.
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That said, when approached with my conundrum, my salesperson was happy to help, even when told I was not planning to buy that day. With a generally young staff and a lot of brands to cover, it wasn’t surprising that her explanation of different approaches to combination skin was a little superficial, and not ingredient focused. And her recommendations tended toward brands over individual products. (Nuxe, Sanoflore and Cattier, specifically. Was it my outfit or did she intuit I often go for natural/organic lines on her own?) Beauty Monop’ is probably best for someone who already knows her stuff, but for overall ambiance, politesse and range of brands, it’s hard to go wrong.
Printemps
64 Boulevard Haussmann
I’ve always been a fan of Printemps’ peaceful shopping experience, and even during the busy holiday season, the beauty annex did not induce a claustrophobic panic attack. It’s well organized, with clearly delineated brand areas, lots of light and a ton of choices. But I got the worst of both worlds with one hard seller (at Orlane) and one miserable jerk (at Sisley).
Madame Orlane told me my real problem was that I wasn’t using complementary products, meaning I should be buying a whole line. With that she recommended two, Orlane’s Anti-Fatigue and Anti-Aging lines, and ticked off a list of ingredients and benefits that had little to do with the schizophrenia on my face. Of samples and literature, she had little, though she did offer small amounts of each line’s serum so I could compare them. It was only then that she directed me to Orlane’s latest line, Hypnotherapy, which purports to literally cut your skin’s response mechanism off from negative emotions.
I could have used some at the Sisley counter, where the saleswoman brusquely shoved two products at me, Hydraglobal Intense antiaging lotion, a known star for combination skin, and Complex au Résines Tropicales, whose benefits I couldn’t quite get out of her, because she had space to go back and stare off into. She balked when I asked for samples and had to be compelled to write the product names down. Thanks for nothing! Literally!
Sephora
21 Boulevard Haussmann
Next I headed to Sephora. I picked the Boulevard Haussmann flagship. As usual, it was hopping. I had to wait a few minutes to get someone’s attention, though once I got her, I got not only her, but a rather complete lecture on the difference between dry skin (not enough sebum) and dehydrated skin (not enough water, which it turns out is my problem right now). After four years of living in Paris, I have grown only too used to the didactic tendencies of the locals, so I couldn’t hold the diatribe against my girl, who was otherwise professional, pleasant and offered to speak English from the first moment my French faltered.
From the little Elizabeth Arden tag on her shirt, I wasn’t surprised when she steered me to Arden’s Intervene Radiance-Boosting Moisture Lotion, claiming it was the only antiaging product that was also moisturizing and yet wouldn’t overgrease my T-zone. Really? The only one? After a moment of reflection, she corrected herself and headed to Sisley for, yes, Hydraglobal. Thanks to Sephora’s sampling program, which uses its own tiny plastic jars, she gave me samples of both. Perhaps there’s an opening at Printemps?
– Alexandra Marshall
London, England
With a thirtysomething birthday looming, I headed to Oxford Street to find a new antiaging skin care regime. An excess of festive cheer and a trifle too much dessert had also left my skin with the Yuletide hangover of fine lines, dullness and an impromptu breakout.
Selfridges
400 Oxford Street
Within Selfridges’ bustling beauty floor, the Chanel counter, with its tweed-covered armchairs and chic fixtures, was a haven of calm. I imagined my fatigued skin effortlessly taking on the allure of a fresh-faced Vanessa Paradis with the help of the brand’s luxurious potions. After an uncomfortable few moments of hovering, an associate asked if I needed help. Disconcertingly, after posing a few questions about my skin concerns, she indicated I required the Ultra Correction Line Repair range rather than the line targeting the first signs of aging. After a quick runthrough of the benefits, she suggested Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream and Anti-Wrinkle Eye Cream. I left—my dreams of Paradis lost—with a sample sachet.
I tested out Clinique’s new corner next. I was welcomed into the luminous space by an associate who asked if I had time to take a seat. Her starchy white lab coat and confident demeanor instantly put me at ease. I was even more reassured when she used hand sanitizer before touching my face. Using a magnifying glass and a questionnaire, she determined my skin type as dry-combination and suggested Clinique’s basic three-step regimen in addition to specific antiaging products, including Youth Surge SPF 15 Age Decelerating Moisturizer. Before I left, she gave me her card and said I was welcome to stop by anytime for further consultations.
Boots
361 Oxford Street
Crossing the street, I headed to Boots and stopped at the Clarins counter. After the gleaming Selfridges beauty department, the stand, though clean and tidy, looked a little tired. An associate listened intently to my concerns. She surmised that my skin was dehydrated and plucked out suitable remedies. As she smoothed creams on my hand, she advised me to drink more water, take colder showers to improve my skin’s tonicity and to exfoliate more regularly—all of which she said would boost the performance of the plethora of treatment products she’d lined up on the counter. She also offered her own tips, including mixing Beauty Flash Balm with foundation to create a dewy glow.
Liberty
Great Marlborough Street
A couple of days later I went to Liberty, heading to the Espa counter. Since it was early in the morning and the store was quiet, I found it odd that the associate felt it necessary to speak quite so loudly. Even if I wasn’t yet self-conscious about my wrinkles, I wasn’t keen for the entire department to hear about my facial flaws.
I sampled a number of products on my hands before she suggested I try Concept Regenerating Moisture Complex, which she said was suitable for “mature” skin. At precisely that moment I became sensitive about my wrinkles and began to worry that they were more obvious than I’d previously believed. While I was aware that I’d gone to the counter in search of an antiwrinkle solution, I wasn’t quite prepared to be classified as “mature”—an immature response, I know.
Teetering on the verge of a dermatological depression, I decided to stop by the Ren counter. After hearing about my—now more profound—wrinkle concerns, the sales assistant shook her head sagely and said Ren doesn’t recommend antiaging products for women below the age of 40. Since she didn’t ask for my ID, I felt reassured.
My relief was complete when, later that evening, I was carded while buying a consoling bottle of (antioxidant-rich) wine. Perhaps in the future I’ll steel myself with Dutch courage before my next face care foray.
– Brid Costello
Dallas, USA
As lady luck would have it, an assignment to shop for weather-proofing moisturizers landed in my in-box just as Dallas sashayed into its brief winter and I ran out of Natura Bissé’s ultrarich Diamond Extreme cream. My skin tightened, begging for help.
Sephora
220 Northpark Center
I found it in grand style at Sephora at NorthPark Center. The greeting could have been quicker, but the rest of the experience was unexpectedly divine: I was pampered with a 15-minute facial, a hand massage and a sympathetic ear.
Why so luxe? In another happy coincidence, the sales associate who heard my dry skin lament led me straight to the visiting trainer for Fresh cosmetics. She nodded empathically upon hearing my woes and asked if I was also concerned with aging. Affirmative. “I have two creams for you,” she said. “Crème Ancienne, which will lock in moisture for eight hours and is a favorite with flight attendants, and Black Tea [Age-Delay] Cream.”
She showed how to emulsify the pasty Ancienne cream and dabbed it on my neck, recommending I also consider Black Tea Instant Perfecting Mask. Did I have time for a short facial? Oh, yes.
She explained the ingredients while cleaning my face, applying the fragrant cucumber Black Tea mask and stroking Brown Sugar Body Cream slowly into my parched hands. This was nice. Very. Finally she smoothed on moisturizer.
My skin glistened, and I felt blissfully relaxed. Had I been a serious shopper willing to spend $200, I would have bought the mask and cream. Instead, I expressed sincere gratitude and said I’d see how my skin felt. She responded graciously, sure that a happy customer—even one who didn’t drop cash—is the best kind.
Dillard’s
100 Northpark Center
I also had helpful, professional service at Dillard’s. I was in the cosmetics department perhaps a minute before an Estée Lauder specialist greeted me and guided me to a chair.
“It used to be you could just use a moisturizer, but now, with pollution and free radicals, you need a serum,” she said.
She smoothly pitched Perfectionist Wrinkle Lifting Serum and Resilience Lift Extreme for daytime, along with Advanced Night Repair and a night version of Resilience, daubing each on the backs of my hands. They felt soothing, and she noted that Night Repair had recently been souped up with a new formula.
“It works,” she assured me, claiming she had used the products for a decade.
Her skin looked pretty damn good. Was she really 60, like she said? Was it great genes? Surgery? Or could the unguents be that effective? It was tempting to give them a whirl.
Whole Foods Market
11700 Preston Road
My final stop was Whole Foods. This chain oozes friendly green benevolence, but it’s still a grocery store, and service is apparently by request. When a cosmetics associate wouldn’t budge from her computer or acknowledge any of the four shoppers in the aisle, I asked for help with parched skin.
She instantly recommended Dr. Hauschka’s Rose Day Cream. It’s not emollient enough for me, I said. She looked surprised, and redirected me to Ann Webb Skin Organics. I tested several moisturizers, deciding the Premium Raspberry Cocoa cream was a fantastic bargain at $17.95 for 1 oz. She also suggested Dr. Hauschka’s moisturizing masks and gave me samples. Two points. She then recommended fish oil supplements, earning two more points for the holistic approach.
– Holly Haber
Hong Kong, China
In Hong Kong, retail is king, but service varies from insulting to inspired, no matter where you shop.
Harvey Nichols
The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road
I strode into Harvey Nichols. My target was the Beyond Beauty section, which features numerous cult brands and special offers. The displays were crowded and eye-catching, with the trendiest-looking products front and center.
In seconds, a salesperson asked if I needed anything in particular. I asked her to recommend an antiaging line and she huddled with two colleagues. Unanimously they chimed, “StriVectin.” I was surprised—she hadn’t asked if I had dry skin or sensitive skin. She didn’t look to see if I had wrinkles to plump or age spots to fade. She told me StriVectin was from the U.S., developed by dermatologists, good for face or tummy, and a better deal (about $205) if I bought the large bottle. I asked her for more information, but she only had a handout in traditional Chinese (bad news for English speakers and Mainland Chinese shoppers).
Sogo
555 Hennessy Road
Next, I headed to Causeway Bay, to drop by the popular department store Sogo. At Helena Rubinstein, I began browsing through the antiaging products. It took less than 20 seconds for the salesperson to approach me. I asked if the Prodigy range was good for dry and sensitive skin. She confirmed the product’s effectiveness, squirted some serum onto the back of my hand and told me the price. While friendly, she also seemed a trifle impatient. I had the feeling I was being dismissed, so I headed to Shiseido.
Although customers were three-to-four deep at Shiseido, I was acknowledged immediately by a very busy salesperson. Somewhat guiltily, I told her I was looking for antiaging products. She pointed out two ranges: Benefiance and Revital, saying that either would meet my needs. She handed me tester bottles and asked a free colleague to help, telling her exactly what I had requested.
My new salesperson started by showing me the Revital range, with special emphasis on Wrinklelift AA serum. After telling her I was worried about using retinol on my sensitive skin, she promptly switched to the benefits of Benefiance. She also showed me a complete guide to the products, answering every one of my questions and looking closely at my face to see just what I needed and where. Happily for my conscience, I really was in need of a moisturizer, so I purchased the day cream and serum (about $103 for both). She threw in samples of the other products in the range so that I could try the entire skin care regime at home.
Sasa
10 Kai Chui Road
One block away, I went into Sasa, Hong Kong’s most popular beauty discount chain store. I headed to the back, looking over numerous products. I looked and looked and looked. After five minutes, a salesgirl said, “Welcome to Sasa,” while walking past me. After another minute, she asked if she could help. I asked about a good antiaging line and she recommended either Swiss Premium or Nuxe. I asked her the difference and she said that Nuxe has natural ingredients, while Swiss Premium is more expensive and very popular.
I said it was too bad there wasn’t a range that combined both the natural ingredients of Nuxe with the effectiveness of the Swiss products and she said, “Oh, you should try Caudalie, then.”
Besides noting that Caudalie is made from grapes and that I could get an eye serum with a purchase of the Grand Cru lotion, she didn’t say much more. I left—noting with some satisfaction that the Shiseido cream I purchased at Sogo was $11 more at Sasa.
– Constance Haisma-Kwok
New York, USA
In winter, even young women’s skin can look flaky—and I am no longer young. My skin looks dull. It does go with the strawlike texture of my hair. But let’s climb only one beauty mountain at a time: I need to find a new skin care regimen.
Bloomingdale’s
59th Street And Lexington Avenue
I head to Bloomingdale’s, where the beauty area has recently undergone an extensive facelift, and the changes are dramatic. It looks lighter and more welcoming, with wider aisles and individual stations devoted to brands. Many glitter enticingly—so many beauty products, so little time.
I go to Shiseido, where I encounter a consultant, who takes me in hand. She first tells me about a new product, BioPerformance Super Corrective Serum, then, using a small wand, puts some on one of my hands. She goes on to show me Future Solution and Benefiance products in considerable variety, rubbing each into a different spot on my hand and wrist. My hands and wrists feel very soft. When I ask her for a list of her suggestions, she pulls out a Skin-Care Planner, which has small photos of the products next to the full name of each. She checks the ones she has tested on me, writes out the name of the Super Corrective Serum, which is not yet shown on the card, then staples her card to the planner. She suggests that I might like to get a facial massage at upcoming events to be held January 26 and 27, and urges me to call her. The planner list is very helpful. But she doesn’t have any samples.
Neither does the consultant for Clinique. She only shows me three products, Youth Surge Day, Youth Surge Night and Repairwear Eyecream. She writes them on a copy of her card. Her handwriting is hard to read. A quick pit stop at La Prairie reveals that the only right thing for me is the most expensive of their lines. The salesperson suggests the travel set, a mere $270, with generous helpings of these products.
Duane Reade
Third Avenue Between 52nd and 53rd Streets
The sales associate at a Duane Reade in the 50s diagnoses my problem before I even named it. “Dry,” she says definitively. And I thought my skin looked pretty smooth! Her name is tattooed on her wrist (so that she doesn’t forget it?), and she points out as she does it that she has just used hand sanitizer as if this were a big novelty. Yikes! This needs to be mentioned?
She carefully lays out several facial tissues and cotton pads before beginning. It seems that what I need is in the Lierac line, specifically Hydra Chrono Balm Very Dry Wash and Toner and a Clarifying Scrub. She helps me put each of these in succession on one of my two hands, then asks me to compare the one that has been washed, scrubbed and moisturized with the one that hasn’t been thus treated. The treated hand does indeed look quite a bit better. As she is applying these items to my skin, she is interrupted several times by shoppers in the cosmetics area, whom she goes to help. She has no samples to offer, but is willing to write out the names of the suggested products on a piece of lined paper.
In sum, the most helpful beauty consultant by far was at Shiseido, where I felt very pampered and attended to. She was also much the oldest, several decades older than the Duane Reade consultant, and experience might have spurred her conscientiousness. And that isn’t just woman-of-acertain-age solidarity.
– Lorna Koski