MILAN — Niche fragrance fair Esxence proved it’s fast becoming an industry fixture with a strong second edition that ran here March 25 to 28. Despite running concurrently with the Global Art of Perfumes fair in Düsseldorf, Esxence attracted 4,036 visitors, an attendance increase of 61 percent compared with the fair’s debut session in March 2009 with 133 exhibitors, 66 percent up on last year.
“I believe the sector is growing despite the crisis because consumers want to buy into an experience,” said Celso Fadelli, chief executive officer and founder of Intertrade Europe and one of the fair’s organizers along with Silvio Levi of Calè Srl. “There are no immediate plans to take the fair overseas, but the first destination will be the U.S.,” Fadelli added. “It’s a growing market for niche fragrances, and we need to be there as soon as possible.”
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New entries at the fair gave visitors a head start on the year’s key launches.
Florence-based perfumer Santa Maria Novella made its first-ever appearance at a trade fair showcasing two forthcoming fragrances that kick-start its 400-year anniversary celebrations in 2012. The new 50-ml. scents, dubbed Ottone (Brass) and Porcellana (Porcelain), will retail for 170 euros, or $228.84 at current exchange.
The company, which produces traditional elixirs along with contemporary skin care products, oils and perfumes, is also expanding its range of spa products. The range currently comprises 67 items and is carried at the company’s 44 global concessions and 100 corners. A new spa massage candle launching next month was unveiled at the fair that produces warm wax when lit and can be applied directly to the skin without burning for a relaxing treatment.
Other new entries at the fair included the latest addition to Intertrade Europe’s portfolio, cult perfume brand Boadicea the Victorious, which inked a distribution deal with the Italian distribution group this month.
“Since First Lady Michelle Obama bought a bottle of the scent at Liberty’s during the G-20 Summit in London, we’ve been inundated with requests,” said Michael Boadi, the brand’s British founder and former celebrity hairdresser. The brand was initially launched at London’s Selfridges department store in 2009. “We’d never seen a customer response like it,” said former Selfridges beauty buyer Christine Benson, who has since been tapped by Boadi to be a brand consultant.
The range, resembling ancient Celtic potions, consists of 16 scents with four notes of citrus, floral, algarwood and musk, and will preview in the U.S. this spring at Henri Bendel. According to industry sources, a window of the department store’s Fifth Avenue flagship will be solely dedicated to the launch. Retail prices start at 98 euros, or $131.92, for a 50-ml. pewter perfume spray.
Expansion was key to many fair exhibitors. A spokeswoman for Costume National’s fragrance distributor Beauty San revealed the Italian fashion company plans to extend its first male fragrance line, Costume National Homme, with a body range later this year, and a new feminine scent is planned for 2011.
Owner and president Gilles Thèvenin of Lubin, the artisan French perfume house founded in 1798, revealed the brand is set to open a 484-square-foot store next month at Place Saint-Sulpice in Paris. Thèvenin purchased the house in 2004 from Wella, and aims to build on its existing 460 global doors. The brand introduced four new 100-ml. perfumes dubbed The Metal Collection for their retro silver scripts inlaid on rectangular bottles completed by wooden stoppers. Itasca, Figaro, Bluff and Inèdile will hit stores next month, and are each priced at 79 euros, or $106.34.
Unisex scents and travel sizes set the trend benchmark at the fair.
Californian based perfumer Keiko Mecheri, distributed by Calè, unveiled two new unisex fragrances. Les Zazous, an oriental inspired scent with a heart of sandalwood, tobacco and incense, with vanilla notes, and Attar de Roses, a floral blend of Arabia and Shiraz roses with jasmine overtones. “Despite the climate, our sales are growing 30 percent year on year and we’re looking to open a lifestyle space in New York or Los Angeles,” said company founder and ceo, Keiko Mecheri.