It’s all about individuality.
Fine jewelry brands exhibiting at JA’s revamped New York Winter show last week showcased charms, pendants, handmade, one-of-a-kind baubles and customizable looks. Regardless of price point, exhibitors emphasized the importance of personal meaning when it comes to jewelry, as well as options and value.
“The JA show has a tremendous amount of variety with price point — it’s not a high-end show, it’s not a low-end show,” said JA director Drew Lawsky, who noted that foot traffic was down 2 percent versus last year, as the show was moved up a month to Jan. 22 to 24.
Nonetheless, JA, which was held at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, earned kudos from buyers and brands alike for its new look, incorporating new jewelry cases, arty black chandeliers, live harp music and updated signage.
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Not far from one of the lounge areas, Rod Kosann, owner of Monica Rich Kosann, a brand whose jewelry ranges in price from $15,000 to $150,000, said buyers have been looking for “timeless” pieces.
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This translates to a collection of 18-karat yellow gold necklaces with diamond-encrusted lockets, Australian black opal and honey quartz pendants and bracelets adorned with charms, including white and rose gold planets.
Brands like Heather Moore, which sells customizable charms, and Strongheart, a non-profit that donates the proceeds of jewelry designed by survivors of conflict zones, bank on selling product with a message.
“I think consumers want something that tells a story of who they are and have something with enduring value. If they can share that with a niece or daughter, all the better,” Kosann said, explaining that while the fluctuating price of gold has caused the brand’s prices to rise about 10 percent, the consumer is more concerned with the quality of the jewelry offered.
Instead of “cutting corners,” the brand has added “more value” to the collection, he said, using the same amount of gold and keeping its original designs.
Cynthia Ann Stewart, designer and founder of Cynthia Ann, also noted that high gold prices have impacted her brand.
“I’ve changed a lot of materials but I’ve always used gold,” she said. “Yellow gold is an important part of the line.”
The rocker-inspired collection mixes yellow and white gold with bronze and blackened sterling silver chains that juxtapose antique religious metals and neutral-colored gems.
Before the recession, the brand’s entry price points hovered around $300, but now prices have hit $695. Most of Stewart’s necklaces, which include removable metals and pendants, range in price between $2,000 and $15,000.
“The high end is unbelievable,” she said. “I’m from Texas and Texas is crazy. There’s a big jewelry boom.”
While it may seem obvious, part of that boom is related to the distinctiveness of the product.
At Alex Sepkus, platinum and 18-karat gold necklaces, cuffs, rings, pins, pendants and earrings feature handmade designs sprinkled with precious and semiprecious gems.
“It’s artwork you can wear,” said sales associate Richard Kasdin, explaining that with the use of different-sized hammerheads, the designer has created uniquely texturized baubles that range in price from $5,000 to $20,000.
“The customer wants something different from what everyone else has,” he said. “At the end of the day, they are looking for something with intrinsic value.”