PARIS — Skull jewelry, charm bracelets and other totems abounded at Première Classe and other accessories trade shows held across the city from Sept. 30 to Oct. 3.
Designer Bernard Delettrez (the father of Delfina Delettrez Fendi), who launched his signature jewelry line a year ago, was a case in point. His new collection of pink ebony and gold skull and insect rings and earrings, priced at around 1,500 euros wholesale, or $2,030 at current exchange rates, added new clients including Le Bon Marché in Paris and On Pedder in Hong Kong, the designer said. “I want to be present in department stores, but particularly in concept stores, who tend to care more about a brand,” Delettrez said.
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Along a similar theme at Tranoi, Los Angeles-based Belgian jewelry designer Catherine Michiels was doing strong business with her collection of charm bracelets with semi-precious stone beads. The brand was expecting to confirm orders with Neiman Marcus and Steven Alan at the show, according to president Jacques Zribi.
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Showing at Première Classe for the first time was IP & Mr. Famous, an Audrey Hepburn-inspired handbag collection from Milan.
The label offers a collection of raffia frame bags, shoppers and clutches embroidered with designs like a cupcake, moped or sunglasses. Wholesale prices range from 90 euros for a hand-held clutch to 230 euros for the Vicky retro clasp purse, or $122 and $311.
“I just loved them,” said Betty Reiter, owner of the store of the same name in Dallas. “I ordered almost all the colors.”
Bold showpieces by the likes of U.K. jewelry designer Mawi and New York-based hair accessory designer Colette Malouf also did well at Première Classe.
“Mawi is the most ‘in’ brand for us,” Adam Gutowski, co-owner of concept store Horn & More in Warsaw, Poland said.
Joan Taylor, owner of the Tutu boutique in Nottingham, England, was also looking for eye-catching styles. “We’re trying to use accessories to oomph everything up a bit, because the collections are so safe,” she noted.
Malouf was exhibiting at Première Classe for the first time in several years in order to build new business in Europe. The designer said she had reconnected with tony French department store Le Bon Marché, which used to stock her creations in the Nineties. Her Studio 54-inspired collection will shortly be offered in a new space within the retailer’s lingerie department, she revealed.
“I also met the stylist from MTV, who picked the showpieces for one of the presenters to wear.” These included the designer’s wire Marcel headband with its Twenties-style waves, priced at $55.
Visitor numbers at Première Classe dropped 10 percent to 11,376 compared with last October. Some 59 percent of visiting buyers were from international markets, with the leading countries being Italy, Japan and the U.S., show organizer WSN stated.