Vincent Van Gogh made an impression on Takuya Morikawa this season.
The Japanese designer had previously dismissed Impressionism for lack of precision, but a reexamination of Van Gogh’s works made him see the technique in a new light. This season he incorporated it into his latest collection in masterful ways.
The Issey Miyake alum is known for his textile innovations and worked on new materials to bring the dreamy energy of the paintings to life.
White waffle knit was blown up to an exaggerated proportion that gave a car-length cardigan and coordinating sweater set a shifting softness but still holding on to its structure, while mohair knits and scarves fully embraced their comfortable nature.
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Using a denim technique, he created waves that rolled over jacket and trouser ensembles and was stitched into silk shirts. Other denim looks took on the qualities of clouds; a coat and trousers paired with a snap-front jacket became an updated, sportier three-piece suit.
Morikawa’s signature grading method weaves jacquard into nylon in small strips that eventually transform. It’s a slow burn that pays off in jackets, particularly a short and snug hybrid bomber-blazer that brought a new shape to the often-overtaxed style.
Cargo pants with subtle ruching at the knees and a voluminous, slightly belled curve on trousers added a relaxed air. On other looks, fabrics used florals in prints resembling starbursts on velour pajama suits, and his technique of overlaying coating atop cotton gave plaid blazers and button-down vests a dripping feel.
The delicate air of the clothes opposed the grittier setting of a deserted parking garage, but rather than end at the runway, models stopped on descending floors so guests could examine the textile techniques up close.
“I want everyone to see the strength in this collection, not just touching the surface but something that is really deep, to get the feeling of power,” he said. Judging by the fascination of the exiting crowd he achieved just that.