“Be the character you are, really lean into your look. Every one of you is here for who you are.” So shouted the showrunner before models stepped out for the Prototypes presentation.
Out they stormed, slinked or slouched depending on their outfit. A utilitarian anorak-based coordinate came out with force, while a garter belt made from men’s tanks under red short shorts made for a confident stride.
Others kept their faces completely obscured by hair or hoodies, and many had their hands shoved deeply into pockets or wrapped around themselves — either in a warm hug or holding on for dear life. The collection “tells a story of preservation in technique and spirit,” said the show notes.
Designers Callum Pidgeon and Laura Beham revealed it was a “conceptual direction” from stylist Betsy Johnson.
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“You can really manipulate silhouettes and body language through the use of hands in unconventional pocket placements,” they said. The designers focus on the resilience of fabrics, too — everything is upcycled. They repurposed Yeezy deadstock for five looks in this collection.
That’s not a coincidence, as the two have been appointed senior design partners of Kanye West’s Yeezy, and the Zurich-based team recently spent a chunk of time in Los Angeles. The collection is centered around and off-kilter archetypes of Americana. You can see West’s influence in some of the final looks of the collection, with faces completely shrouded in fabric à la his latest outings.
“Working creatively with Ye and the Yeezy team has been a constant learning curve and he is a great mentor for us,” they said.
Oversize bags made from old jackets are a clever idea, but the pieces that bind the hands and body read as counterintuitive with the focus on freedom of character. Elsewhere they mix textures with nonchalance, such as a lifeguard singlet over a faux fur chubby.
A voluminous black jacket with shoulders puffed up to Elizabethan proportions paired with a nylon pencil skirt bustled from its original jacket hood made an inventive use of discarded athleticwear that demonstrates they have construction chops.
When working with upcycling, it will take a consistently strong point of view to create something cohesive and make the argument for viability.