New York City-based brand Overcoat is founder and designer Ryuhei Oomaru’s idea of “wearing New York.” The Bunka Fashion College alum who worked at Comme des Garçons and served as head tailor at Donna Karan designs unisex ensembles rooted in tailoring for his label, and for the spring 2023 collection titled “Come Together,” he produced playful new proportions for leisure settings.
Oomaru also tapped artist Rirkrit Tiravanija to partner on one-of-a-kind garments made from secondhand clothing reclaimed by the Or Foundation, a U.S.- and Ghana-based not-for-profit organization that is raising awareness of fashion’s waste crisis.
Look: Oversize unisex silhouettes built on relaxed tailoring.
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Key Pieces: Each piece is designed with a consideration for ease and range of motion, like the Darted Dolman Sleeve Overcoat with darts at the shoulder that create a back pleat for more movement in the shoulder and body and fabrics like lightweight wool, tropical wool and linen used in tailored jackets, trousers and shirting. Oomaru leaned on earth tones like military green, moss green and gold for suiting and pullover spread collar tops and some outerwear and opted for bright colors for cotton terry pile shirts, shorts and playsuit.
Meanwhile, the designer and artist Tiravanija went avant-garde for their one-of-one outerwear selection of reclaimed, bonded and shredded outerwear that they presented in Chinatown in New York City. The 12 outerwear pieces in the capsule together spell out the collection titled, “Come Together,” on the back.
Takeaway: The easy draping, layering and fabric selection for the collection lends itself to menswear’s move to more leisurely styles. But the shapes and styles are classic and should live on.