Who Won the Day? Getting Ready for Glastonbury at Burberry at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week Day 4
At Burberry, Daniel Lee is instilling a British sensibility — and what could be more of a British rite of passage than attending the music festival Glastonbury? A mud green jumper with distressed edges paired with green check trousers and a Burberry check scarf.
“[The collection is] for rolling around outside. They’re clothes you can live in.”
— Daniel Lee
Burberry Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: All Wrapped Up
Daniel Lee’s latest collection marked a step up. It was outerwear-focused and more sophisticated.
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Who Won the Day? JW Anderson’s British Nosy Neighbors at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week Day 3
The ludicrously capacious tweed coat at JW Anderson was fit for one thing: spying in the English countryside. What’s under the coat? Perhaps a cup of tea or more variations of the gray-haired poodle perm wigs.
“I just wanted something which was a bit off-kilter.”
— Jonathan Anderson
JW Anderson Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: Colloquialism Comes to the Fore
There was an intriguing randomness to this collection, which included ludicrously capacious tweed coats and a host of eye-catching knits.
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Who Won the Day? Erdem’s Viva La Diva at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week Day 2
It’s only fitting that clothes based on American-Greek soprano Maria Callas at Erdem delivered drama and beauty, especially with a red silk pajama set embellished with black beads and frayed at the hem.
“[I wanted to juxtapose] the person and the persona.”
— Erdem Moralıoğlu
Erdem Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: Viva la Diva
Erdem’s collection was a tribute to Maria Callas following the centenary of her birth in 2023.
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Who Won the Day? Dunhill Brings Back English Style at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week Day 1
A three-piece suit in 2024 may sound stuffy and unimaginative, but at Simon Holloway’s debut Dunhill show at the National Portrait Gallery, the soft brown attire was the whisper among the audience at the Duveen wing. There were no trappings of yesteryear, but instead light touch that made tailoring exciting again.
“I’m not trying to create some kind of period costume drama.”
— Simon Holloway
Dunhill Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: A Debut That’s the Talk of the Town
Simon Holloway won the prize for the grandest show on the first day of London Fashion Week.
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Chanel Cruise 2027: Coming Home
Matthieu Blazy showed his first resort collection in Biarritz, the seaside town where Coco Chanel laid the foundation of Chanel style.
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Emilio Pucci Spring 2026: Dawn Fun
Artistic director Camille Miceli dubbed her collection Alba, or Italian for “dawn,” as a celebration of “pure vitality” reflected by the brand’s signature colorful prints, shown in a striking Sicilian location.
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Maison Margiela Fall 2026: Shines Brighter Than Laopu Gold
The Belgian legacy house skipped Paris to stage its first global runway show in Shanghai.
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Ludovic de Saint Sernin Fall 2026: Winter Bare
The designer spent time sketching in isolation to strip his collection back to sensual basics.
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Kent & Curwen Fall 2026: Cracking the Books
Daniel Kearns put a polished spin on English school uniforms for a show at Westminster School in London.
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AFEW Rahul Mishra Fall 2026: White Gold
The Indian designer partnered with Supima, recasting cotton as luxury’s future.
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Johanna Ortiz Fall 2026: A Madrid Debut
Luxury Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz opened Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid with a fall show full of rich new layers.
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