After establishing men’s-focused shows in New York, Paris and Las Vegas, Capsule launched a women’s edition this season, mounted at the Angel Orensanz Foundation, a former synagogue on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. The show emphasized progressive and emerging designers, with a healthy contingent of Scandinavian brands.
Capsule drew buyers from major chains like Neiman Marcus, Selfridges and Urban Outfitters, as well as a host of independent boutiques, who were seeking unique product but with a careful eye on price. While many retailers said sales have started to rebound this season, they also agreed shoppers are still hesitant to splurge.
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“The women’s market is so competitive so we need interesting pieces that won’t break the bank. Our shopper is very price-conscious now,” said Farrah Zeigler, a buyer for Fred Segal Woman in Santa Monica. “Everyone has been trained to wait for sales, so you really have to give them something exciting to buy.”
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Zeigler was searching for fall knitwear at Capsule, and especially liked the brands at Parlor Showroom’s booth, which in addition to sweaters included elegant Fifties-style skirts in vintage wool voile from Whit, dramatic maxi coats from Timo Weiland and chic party frocks from Lorick.
Whit was a favorite of Anne Maristela, a buyer at Steven Alan, which operates nine stores in New York and California, as well as an e-commerce site. “The collection is fancy preppy with a downtown vibe and the quality is great — but the prices are very good,” she noted of the young label.
Nina Wolff, cofounder of Cry Wolf, a boutique in New York’s East Village, liked the Danish brand Stine Goya, which featured oversize silk shirts and blouses with creative plays on volume — some tight in the arm but billowy on the body. Prints in the line were inspired by Ansel Adams and Georgia O’Keefe, including a stylized cemetery scene.
Updated preppy staples were showcased at Trovata, where designer John Whitledge pointed out lightweight waxed canvas trenchcoats, snappy corduroy shirtdresses with suede or leather belts and slim-fit trousers with a slight slouch, in a “West Indian Winter” themed collection.