The JA New York Winter Show left retailers wanting more. Jewelers who showed new, dynamic pieces at the show were the ones retailers buzzed about.
Of the 500 exhibitors present at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, few presented new pieces. The past year has been challenging for designer jewelers. With gold prices hovering at around $1,100 an ounce, many jewelers are continuing to emphasize lesser-priced silver collections.
On the bright side, jewelers that offered newness enticed retailers. Many said business started to pick up in December and reported slight increases in January and February.
“I didn’t see many new brands; however, what we saw from the brands we know looked fresh,” said Jodi Kaplan, vice president and divisional merchandise manager for jewelry and watches at Bergdorf Goodman. Kaplan noted Paul Morelli’s new meditation bells collection, which features gem-studded gold bells as pendants and fobs and necklaces and earrings. She also named Alex Sepkus’ opal hanging earrings, and Raffaella Mannelli’s new box tree wood pieces as standouts at the show.
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Tiny Jewel Box chief executive officer Jim Rosenheim sought gold jewelry to fill his Washington, D.C., store.
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He named Ray Griffiths’ gold and gemstones pieces, Erica Molinari’s oxidized silver line and Terso’s pieces in color as being key.
Overall, however, the show didn’t pack the punch many retailers had hoped. “There were so few people [exhibitors] there wasn’t an impact of things,” said Rosenheim, who said business has been looking up and that January and February had been strong due to Valentine’s Day purchasing. He added there is no one trend. The retailer has been selling anything from $125 silver pieces to a $75,000 yellow diamond ring late last month.
JA reported more than 10,000 buyers preregistered for the show, up 22 percent from last year.
Trend-wise, organic-looking pieces are still important, as seen at Sepkus and Sarah Jannerbo, a five-year-old jewelry firm that works in gold and silver. Indian-style jewelry with rose-cut diamonds and brightly colored sapphires set into blackened silver, such as those at Hari, were popular. Pieces that incorporate lucky or protective charms remain key sellers. Notable styles included Monica Rich Kosann’s elephant charm bracelet and Sydney Evan’s stacking stretch gemstone bracelets with diamond charms in the shapes of hamsas, peace signs and elephants.
Morelli called it “pick-me-up” jewelry. “They are things that make people feel better,” he said of his meditation bell pieces.
Sydney Evan designer Rosanne Karmes concurred: “My jewelry is classic, but it has an edge. It’s very user-friendly.”