Through many years and several regime changes, Saks Fifth Avenue has wooed Prada for its designer ready-to-wear floor.
Whether Prada felt it was overdistributed or didn’t want to worry other retail accounts, Saks was left out of the party for so long. On Thursday, the chase finally ended with the opening of a 1,000-square-foot Prada women’s shop at Saks’ Manhattan flagship, bringing some extra cache to the third floor and filling a big void in the merchandising.
“The new shop is one of the cornerstones of our newly renovated and reimagined designer third floor,” said Tracy Margolies, Saks’ chief merchant. “This is just the beginning of an expanded partnership with Prada this spring.”
No additional Prada women’s rtw shops at Saks stores have been revealed. But Prada clearly feels the time is right for a Saks partnership. Hudson’s Bay Co., which owns Saks, is spending $250 million to overhaul its Fifth Avenue flagship and executives say Saks is engaging deeper in luxury products. Not long ago, Margolies told WWD that the company is “elevating our message and becoming more fashion-forward.”
Saks did lay some groundwork for a stronger collaboration with Prada last year when a separate Prada shoe salon on the eighth floor, with a made-to-order program and enhanced marketing was installed at the flagship. Previously, Prada footwear was set alongside other designer brands in a central part of the 10022-Shoe floor on eight, making for a rather undistinguished presentation.
For the women’s rtw, the Prada shop is strategically located near the escalators, with ample space. The decor reflects Prada’s signature aesthetics seen in other luxury department stores and at the Prada stores — the black-and-white marble chequered floor, wide black marble gateways with a window in between, the green canvas walls, and Osvaldo Borsani’s green velvet chairs reproduced exclusively for Prada. What’s inconsistent is that the shop is not leased. Most Prada shops and other designer shops such as Gucci and Dior are often leased. Officials from Saks and Prada were not available Thursday to comment on the business model they agreed upon.
The women’s collection is displayed in light, clear acrylic glass cases and on steel/glass tables and acrylic glass tables. While there is some resort wear, the message is really about spring, with glam ostrich feathered silk pajamas, feathered trenches and dusters, and the “sporty girl” leather jackets, all complemented by the “plex ribbon” leather bags with wide straps, among Prada’s larger investments and fun statements for the season.