Mass Offers New Life For Once-Edgy Brands
In the past two months, once-edgy, hip brands have found new life in mass market doors. For the mass merchants, these brands with built-in fans, bring much-needed attention to beauty departments. As drugstore chains and discounters try to improve their presentations, they are excited to get their hands on lines with great brand equity.
The most recent examples are Hard Candy, which has been relaunched as an exclusive at Wal-Mart, and Demeter, which will open a new flagship within Duane Reade as well as expand to many other mass doors.
When Demeter first wafted onto the scene, its whimsical single-note scents made it the darling of celebs and socialites. The founders were transported to immediate fame and FiFi’s were bestowed on the brand. After some time, however, the brand’s mystique lessened.
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Mark Crames, formerly of the Northern Group, purchased the collection of fragrances under the banner of Freedom Marketing Group and has since expanded in different channels. A major push will be in mass, where chains such as CVS and Duane Reade are making major statements. But Crames has created different options to keep the fragrances viable in specialty, midtier and teen stores, too.
Other brands over the years have migrated to mass, too. Barielle nail, OPI, Nexxus… these are just a few examples. The pipeline in fragrances continues to open up for direct procurement, too. The continued opening of the door offers chains something they had hoped for — and didn’t always receive — in the form of exclusive brands, such as those from Europe. While some of the European imports hit a chord with consumers — such as Boots — others didn’t have the acceptance chain desired. Instead, they are now actively looking at upscale brands that might like the growth opportunity presented by chains.
One big question is, Are the shoppers who knew these brands when they were in specialty or upscale doors also the customers at mass? In other words, will they respond to finding a brand they once had to hunt down in limited doors at the corner drug store? Will these brands have the same cachet in broader distribution? Those who believe in the blurring of retail channels give a wholehearted ‘yes’ that shoppers will welcome these lines. The jury is out, and the results will indeed help determine what the mass merchants of the future sell.
People, place and things
A few words with Mark Crames as he rolls out the Demeter Fragrance Library to expanded doors. Crames has experience in the fragrance world with his years at The Northern Group, now he’s having fun with funky fragrances such as Laundromat and Dirt.
WWDBeautyNews:
What’s the latest from Demeter?
Mike Crames: We have just signed a license for Hello Kitty with Sanrio, and there will be fragrances for the different personalities of the characters. We also signed a license with Pop Tart. We’ve find the candy licenses are better suited for Claire’s versus mass. For mass, we are rolling out some of our top classics.
WWDBeautyNews: The store closed years ago. What are you doing instead?
M.C.: We are building a store within a store in Duane Reade. It will be our flagship and offer 90 scents. We will send people there to see what we can do.
NPD Presents: Karen Grant, vice president and global industry analyst at NPD, will present a custom HBA survey at HBA Global Expo next Tuesday in New York’s Jacob K. Javits Center.
Holding On Too Long: A Mintel Study finds British women are holding on to cosmetics products even if they have deteriorated with age, pointing to opportunities for the industry to convince them to replenish sooner. Funny smells or discoloration would only make 28 percent of women discard a makeup, shampoo or shower gel.