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After painting full faces of makeup on the models at Carolina Herrera Monday morning, makeup artist Diane Kendal headed further downtown to perform a decidedly less product-heavy routine for Proenza Schouler.
The reference was a cover shoot Kendal did a decade ago with Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia, in which the model had a fresh face highlighted by bleached eyebrows and flicks of white liner on the outer and inner corners of the eye. Riffing on that look, Kendal brushed on white eye shadow in the same spots to five models, and bleached a few blonde girls’ brows. “They wanted to keep the girls individual, to look like themselves, but thought it would be nice to mix it up and have a few girls with a look,” said Kendal. “It’s a bit Nineties.”
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The rest of the models were given just the bare basics — skin was prepped with a slew of Tata Harper skin-care products, and Kendal and her team dabbed concealer on blemishes.
Holli Smith for Bumble and bumble created the hair look, which — for most — was straight hair and a center part. But the look wasn’t for everyone — girls with signature hairstyles, like Selena Forrest, who is known for her natural texture — were left intact. “It’s polished but easy and Proenza,” said Smith of the look. “Last time they had something super natural, but I wanted a little more polished. And you can still see the girls’ personalities.” She also relied on hair extensions to add body on fine-haired girls. The key product was Bumble and bumble Don’t Blow It Hair Styler, a lightweight creme designed to enhance texture. Smith also used the brand’s Thickening Lotion to enhance limp strands.
Nails by China Glaze were a solid light gray — a shade called Steel Pelican. Toes were given a coat of Salsa red or Liquid Leather black.