Milan brands did a great job keeping the general feeling of their shows “normal.’ This photo was taken at MaxMara. Spacing between the chairs is bigger, but apart from this, I think that nothing about this image tells the viewer that something is not right.
Models waiting in a lineup at the Salvatore Ferragamo show. Stretching their arms, they reminded me of characters from the posters instructing the public on how to keep social distance.
Natalia Vodianova posing for photographers at the Dior show in Paris. Long lenses were essential this season.
Casting at the Koche show in Paris consisted mostly of friends of the brand and local kids. It always is refreshing to photograph beautiful people you have not seen before and who don’t know how to professionaly act in front of the lens.
Temperature taking at Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini in Milan. Security was supposed to stop people with temperature over 37.5°C. I have not seen anybody denied access for that reason at any of the shows.
Sitting arrangment at Xuly Bet in Paris.
Even if the show is held at the most striking location, backstage usually takes place in a narrow technical corridor or in an ugly makeshift tent. It is frustrating to be surrounded by the beautiful architecture and to be able to include it in your pictures. This time around, because of the COVID-19 regulations, models often had to line up outside and I could finally take the pictures I’ve been dreaming of.
Showgoers were genuinely happy to see each other this season. It went much beyond the usual how-are-yous, great-to-see-yous and you-look-amazings. One could sense real smiles radiating from underneath the masks and hear actual interest in the questions about how somebody spent the lockdown. Here you can see “air hugs” at Alberta Ferretti.
The makeup area at Salvatore Ferragamo featured face shields and a lot of spacing.
This is how a street in central Milan looked on a sunny Saturday afternoon.
As the days went by, more and more local photographers in Milan realized that it actually makes sense to cover the shows. Influencers and celebrities were in attendance and there were images to be taken. The situation peaked at the Hugo Boss show, pictured here.
A stylish commute in Paris. Since (in theory) only every second chair on the metro should be occupied, putting your bag next to you was not something to be frowned upon. It could even be seen as a justified way of keeping a secure distance.
Invited guests watched models walking the Ami show on a quai by the Seine from a boat on the river. Kids without the invites watched them from a sidewalk above. Leaning over the wall, they looked like characters from a nouvelle vague movie.
With stores closed down, rain pouring, and streets lacking tourists Paris felt eerie. Every day was like Sunday. Every day was silent and gray.
Milanese airports on the last day of Milan Fashion Week are usually crowded with members of the fashion caravan. Stylists, editors, photographers, makeup artists, models and their agents… Everybody has to get to Paris on the same day. Not this time… Because of quarantine and international travel regulations, a lot of people had to choose between two cities.
Face masks were the most apparent visual sign of this season’s strangeness. I was surprised to see that in the end they have not become a fashion accessory. Some people styled and played with them, but almost nobody wore designer ones. Most of the show attendees concentrated on pure functionality and chose simple surgical masks. After a while, the masks became visually transparent; I often could not remember if the person I photographed was wearing one or not.
When you think about it, a balaclava is the exact opposite of a mask.
Face masks at fashion week, spring 2021.
Face masks at fashion week, spring 2021.
Face masks at fashion week, spring 2021.
Face masks at fashion week, spring 2021.
Face masks at fashion week, spring 2021.
Smokers had it a little bit easier; they always had an excuse to free their nose and mouth. I found it as unfair as a cigarette break at the office.
Face masks at fashion week, spring 2021.
Face masks at fashion week, spring 2021.
Face masks at fashion week, spring 2021.
Face masks at fashion week, spring 2021.