Makeup artist Pat McGrath said that for the Stella McCartney show models’ skin was perfected. They were given a bit of contour around the eyes and Pat McGrath Labs FetishEyes Mascara on the roots of their lashes. She used Skin Fetish on cheekbones and balm on lips. Delible tattoos, with McCartney’s messages such as “Earth Day Every Day” and “Fur Free Fur” were drawn on necks, earlobes and fingers. — Jennifer Weil
![ÒOur girl is in the Eighties, sheÕs very Parisian,Ó said makeup artist Val Garland before the Giambattista Valli show, adding the influence for the look was a cross between Guy Bourdin and the movie ÒFame.Ó ÒMakeup is very considered, done in its simplicity. ItÕs a bit of a nod toward a Brooke Shields brow Ñ itÕs a nice, filled-in brow, quite bushy. Then itÕs beautiful, polished, finished, peachy skin. Not a highlight in sight.Ó ModelsÕ skin was given a matte finish and their lips a beige-like hue. Eleven models got a chromatic eye (Òmy nod to ÔFame,ÕÓ said Garland). ÒWeÕre using black, white, silver and a little bit of glitter,Ó she explained, referring to the look involving a curvy white line drawn over modelsÕ lids and a black liner used under their lower lids. Blow that was placed a black, white and gray strip with a sparkly fringe Òlike a visor,Ó Garland said. ÒIt made [the look] more futuristic and less delicately eyelash-y.Ó MAC Cosmetics were used backstage. Ñ Jennifer Weil](https://martav.shop/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/giambattista_valli_bsb_f19_da_274-1.jpg?w=200)
“Our girl is in the Eighties, she’s very Parisian,” said makeup artist Val Garland before the Giambattista Valli show, adding the influence for the look was a cross between Guy Bourdin and the movie “Fame.” “Makeup is very considered, done in its simplicity. It’s a bit of a nod toward a Brooke Shields brow — it’s a nice, filled-in brow, quite bushy. Then it’s beautiful, polished, finished, peachy skin. Not a highlight in sight.” Models’ skin was given a matte finish and their lips a beige-like hue. Eleven models got a chromatic eye (“my nod to ‘Fame,’” said Garland). “We’re using black, white, silver and a little bit of glitter,” she explained, referring to the look involving a curvy white line drawn over models’ lids and a black liner used under their lower lids. Blow that was placed a black, white and gray strip with a sparkly fringe “like a visor,” Garland said. “It made [the look] more futuristic and less delicately eyelash-y.” MAC Cosmetics were used backstage. — Jennifer Weil
“It’s all about a liner, a little smudge and perfected skin,” said makeup artist Pat McGrath, describing the beauty look she crafted for models at Givenchy’s fashion show. “It’s very minimal, but with a little edge to it, a little bit of rebellion.” — Jennifer Weil
“It’s all about a very pale, otherworldly beauty,” said makeup artist Lynsey Alexander. “You’ve got this beautiful, pale face, but it’s a little bit more romantic than Gothic. There’s a fragility to the beauty; they’ve got this porcelain, alabaster skin. We’re lightening it [with a] product from Kiko, like a silver highlight radiance cream. On the runway it comes out like a silver wet shine. We’re using that, a little bit of highlights, then we finish with gloss over the eye [and a bit on cheeks] — to bring a little sort of fetish finish to it. That makes it look a bit sexy. So we’re kind of pushing back all the features then bringing out this wet, sexy, shiny eye.” Alexander said it’s as if models had “been moon-bathing rather than sun-bathing.” — Jennifer Weil
Alex Box created a makeup look for the Issey Miyake show that stemmed from her reaction to the clothes. “It was those acidy colors – so light and fresh, and [their] hope and vibrancy,” she said. Box, working with MAC Cosmetics, explained she nourished models’ skin and made them feel good with Prep + Prime Essential Oils. “We keep having to re-apply it, but every time the skin is just a little bit more plump,” she said. Box also used ochre-colored washes on models’ eyelids. “Once the foundation is on I take it out… so the skin comes through,” she continued. “And then just press the oil back in, so the heat comes up. Everything is about feeling and not seeing – it just feels real.” – Jennifer Weil
“The inspiration is a mystic traveler, so we’re just keeping the skin very fresh and luminous. We’re not really creating a definitive look,” said makeup artist Diane Kendal. She explained the look involved evening out models’ skin tone, adding a light amount of foundation, curling lashes and grooming eyebrows. “Six girls have got blue on their inner corner,” she said. “It’s just a pop of blue. Then some girls are getting a tiny bit of contour. Some are getting mascara. [For others,] we’re taking their lip down because it’s got too much color.” — Jennifer Weil
For the models’ makeup at Mugler, Inge Grognard nodded to Eighties influences from designer Thierry Mugler himself. “There were all these eyebrows, eyeliner, but we did it in a rougher way — we added rock ‘n’ roll,” she said, explaining that for some models, skin was left natural-looking. “Then a few girls have blue on their eyes, but washed out…[and] perfect red lips. The second look we have is a smoky eye [done] with a sharp liner but then smashed up. The third look was inspired by perfect eyebrows, but we did them in a rougher way.” — Jennifer Weil
Pat McGrath said the makeup at Paco Rabanne was meant to be “a modern take on Lauren Bacall and Edie Sedgwick, with a beautiful glowing, fresh skin look.” For the Bacall-inspired section, models’ eyebrows were groomed and skin kept natural. From Pat McGrath products, she used MatteTrance lipstick in Elson and Forbidden Love. For the Sedgwick look, PermaGel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil and Perma Precision Liquid Eyeliner in extreme black were used, as was FetishEyes Mascara on models’ top and bottom lashes. “On the skin we’ve added Skin Fetish Highlighter + Balm Duo on the cheekbones,” said McGrath. – Jennifer Weil
“The makeup is very rough, heavy-handed, almost a cartoon-style imitation of a Sixties Polly Maggoo kind of makeup,” explained Peter Philips, creative and image director of Christian Dior makeup, referring to the look he created for models’ eyes. That involved liner on their top lids and little lines, like thick eyelashes, drawn under the lower lids. Otherwise, models’ skin was made luminous, with a bit of a glow created using Dior Addict Stellar Shine in Mirage. — Jennifer Weil
“Inspiration for the makeup is always first of all [Haider Ackermann’s] collection,” said Inge Grognard, explaining also for this season a color had to be sharp, which was a deep red. “I was thinking about an eyeliner, but not an eyeliner with a flip. It’s an eyeliner like the cut of a knife in the corner of the eye. There will be a few girls that have the deep red, a few of them have black. Skin is flawless, pale with a highlight and a bit of powder. No mascara, no gel in the eyebrows – nothing. It’s all about the cut in the eye.” – Jennifer Weil
Lisa Butler had in mind travelers for the beauty look of the Isabel Marant show. “They’re outdoor girls – they are groomed but not,” she explained. “They’re not neat girls; they are quite savage in a way… although we have a tiny bit of [flesh-color] glitter on some of them. They look like they have been living outside. It’s like we’ve taken the contour color and put it all over their face and blended it in,” she said. Balm was applied to models’ lips, and their eyebrows were brushed up. – Jennifer Weil
Tom Pecheux was inspired by Italian artist Amedeo Modigliani’s artwork and his female muses for this look. “We’re trying to re-create a makeup [that] is also done in an artistic way, we’re using creamy products and we’re really applying them like a painter,” said Pecheux, whose MAC Cosmetics palette included tones of orange, pink, red and brown. Yet, there weren’t many brushes on his makeup station, as he mainly used his fingers to tap orange creamy eye shadow on the lids and underneath the eye, as well as to smudge pink and reddish blushing on the cheekbones. As a final touch, he layered MAC Powder Kiss Lipstick in the dark “Double Fudge” shade with pops of red and a hint of blue tapped on the central part of the lips. — Sandra Salibian
Giorgio Armani Beauty’s international makeup artist Linda Cantello changed the makeup look a few hours before the show, trading strong, graphic lines designed around the eyes for a more smudged and subtle effect. Working with different crayons, she designed a green line on the top lid and a blue one under the eye, making sure to leave a clean space between the stroke and the bottom lash line. Then she used a cotton swab to smudge both lines and leave only a veil of color, before adding depth to the strokes with a matte black eye shadow applied with a thin eyeliner brush. Black mascara was slicked on top lashes while eyebrows were filled naturally and groomed with a dust of glitter. Lips and blush were coordinated thanks to a new pencil product named Color Sketcher, which will debut in 12 shades in May. — Sandra Salibian
Diane Kendal was among the makeup artists opting for a natural look at this Milanese fashion season. Using a combination of MAC Cosmetics and Bobbi Brown products, she evened models’ skin tone with a moisturizer and a light foundation, before applying a hint of contour on the lids and tapping a peony creamy blush on the cheeks. A subtle highlighter was added to define the top of the cheekbones as well as to lighten the inner corner of the eyes, while lashes were simply curled and brushed with black mascara. — Sandra Salibian
“We just wanted them to be quite cool and modern girls,” said Lucia Pieroni, who served a fresh and well-balanced combination of glittery eyes and bold lips. Using MAC Cosmetics, she perfected the skin before lightly applying the Dazzleshadow Liquid in the silvery “Not Afraid to Sparkle” or gold “Flash and Dash” tones on models’ lids. Then, she designed flashy lips in different shades — ranging from burgundy to orange red and pink — on each model via the MAC Liptensity lip pencils. “It’s quite individual, [we picked the colors based on] what they’re wearing and them. It was a very instinctive and spontaneous [process],” Pieroni said. — Sandra Salibian
Terry Barber broke the minimal, barely there makeup trend dominating Milanese runways to deliver some disco-fever accents. After prepping the skin, he finger-tapped his favorite MAC Cosmetics Powder Kiss Lipstick in the rose-brown “Sultry Move” shade both on the lips and on the cheekbones, as well as smudging it on pink-shadowed lids. “I love it because it’s not red, not brown, not a taupe, not a pink — it’s just a mix of all of those, like a modern version of the caramel toffee tones used in the Nineties,” Barber said. Lashes were glammed up with abundant MAC In Extreme Dimension mascara, but the real coup de théâtre came on some models in the form of rhinestones applied with eyelash glue across the nose and on cheeks to imitate freckles. — Sandra Salibian
“It’s sort of a glamorous sweat: Models look like they’ve been to a spa, the skin is so perfect,” said Lynsey Alexander, who conceived a basic yet radiant look. Using MAC Cosmetics products, she brightened and lit up the skin with the Strobe Cream and finished off the effect topping it with the Prep + Prime stick in key spots, such as the cheekbones and the Cupid’s bow. Eyebrows were filled when needed while lips were left bare. — Sandra Salibian
Pat McGrath opted for a natural yet edgy look for the show. The focus was on skin, which she perfected applying ultralight foundation and concealer where needed. Lashes were curled while eyebrows were bleached and groomed. Slightly paled-down lips finished off the look. — Sandra Salibian
Thomas de Kluyver created two looks for the show. He prepared the skin with a light moisturizer and perfected it with MAC Cosmetics Studio Face and Body foundation. Then, on some models he delivered a strong gaze by haphazardly smudging the Shiseido Inkstroke Gel Liner in the “Shikkoku Black” shade with a thin brush. On the rest of the girls, the makeup was kept at a bare minimum, as he only tapped the MAC Cosmetics Lipglass on the lips. — Sandra Salibian
“It’s just about a beautiful skin,” said makeup artist Tom Pecheux of the ultra-natural look he created for the show. Using MAC Cosmetics products, he evened out the skin with a see-through foundation and he filled in brows to get a slightly bushy effect. A hint of leftover black makeup was created between the lashes, smudging a smolder pencil to the upper-inner waterline and removing it, while lips were simply coated with a lip balm. — Sandra Salibian
For this natural look, Lucia Pieroni used Nars Cosmetics products to perfect models’ skin and shape brows. She added a see-through, glittery effect on the lids by applying the Nars Multi-use Gloss in the silvery “First Time” shade, while lips were coated with the brand’s Clean Cut lip balm. — Sandra Salibian
Lynsey Alexander used a selection of Kiko products to illuminate and sculpt skin in an invisible way. The inspiration was a masculine kind of beauty; so she made eyebrows fuller and avoided a glamorous effect on lashes by swapping a brow mascara with a classic one to brush them. To add a final touch, she tapped transparent lip gloss on the lids to recreate the glossy effect on model’s hair. Kiko’s Skin Tone foundation, Smart Radiance Cream and 3D Hydra lip gloss were the key products. — Sandra Salibian
Tippi Hedren and Hitchcock’s movies inspired Val Garland to design a bold, graphic-shaped eye. “It’s all about the outer wing, but we wanted it futuristic and not cat-like,” said the makeup artist, who used a Nars Cosmetics gel liner topped with black eyeshadow to add a textured, velvety effect to the gaze. Brows were filled with a pencil and brushed up, while the Nars Clean Cut lip balm finished off the look. — Sandra Salibian
Inge Grognard focused on creating a luminous skin via Code8 foundation, the brand’s Radiate balm and the Seamless Cover perfecting concealer, as well as sculpting cheekbones with a highlighter. On certain models, she tapped a shimmery spot in green, pink or gold on lids. On others, she applied colored feathers on the outside corner of the eyes to echo details of the collection. — Sandra Salibian
“A little bit grungy, antiglam, leftover makeup” is how Lynsey Alexander defined the beauty look she created for the show. Working with MAC Cosmetics, she focused on dragging down the bottom of the eyes via chunky, In Extreme Dimension 3-D black mascara applied on curled lashes. A bespoke jelly product blending clear lip gloss, vanilla pigment and gold was smeared on lids and cheekbones to make foundation-free skin look sweaty. As a final touch, models sported elongated fake nails treated with flashy-colored marble effects and gold leaves. — Sandra Salibian
Makeup artist Sam Bryant opted for an “indie grungy” beauty look that was all about bold, purple lips for nine of the ladies walking the catwalk, including Chloë Sevigny and Lily Cole. Bryant applied MAC Cosmetics’ Beet lip pencil all over the lips and topped it with Cyber lipstick. Skin was hardly treated, except for touches of corrector and a hint of natural blush on the cheeks. — Sandra Salibian
Makeup artist Val Garland said Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing explained he wanted models to be the best version of themselves, in terms of the beauty look, which was to be strong and fresh. “This season he wanted the idea of perfect skin, with a flush, an inner radiance, so we are using a L’Oréal lipstick,” said Garland, adding some models were given eyeliner or mascara, and their brows were brushed up and filled in. – Jennifer Weil