• Backstage at Giambattista Valli RTW Fall 2019

    Anthony Turner had in mind, when conceiving the hairstyle for the Giambattista Valli show, a Parisian woman who has been on a journey of self-exploration, traveling around the world. ÒBut now sheÕs back, with a vengeance,Ó he said, describing her look as one of Òundone glamour.Ó Turner used LÕOrŽal Paris products, including a mousse that he applied to modelsÕ hair to make it matte, added a low side part, dried tresses with fingers and bent them with a curling iron. Ò[ThereÕs] a little bit of height through the top,Ó he said. A spritz of Elnett followed and a wide-tooth comb created some marks. ÒI feels a little bit androgynous,Ó said Turner, adding that the few models sporting a more decorated eye would get a simple ponytail. Ñ Jennifer Weil
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard for WWD

    Anthony Turner had in mind, when conceiving the hairstyle for the Giambattista Valli show, a Parisian woman who has been on a journey of self-exploration, traveling around the world. “But now she’s back, with a vengeance,” he said, describing her look as one of “undone glamour.” Turner used L’Oréal Paris products, including a mousse that he applied to models’ hair to make it matte, added a low side part, dried tresses with fingers and bent them with a curling iron. “[There’s] a little bit of height through the top,” he said. A spritz of Elnett followed and a wide-tooth comb created some marks. “I feels a little bit androgynous,” said Turner, adding that the few models sporting a more decorated eye would get a simple ponytail. — Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Stella McCartney RTW Fall 2019

    Eugene Souleiman said he created a side part and ponytail for models at the Stella McCartney show, where they were meant to look like they had just gotten out of the shower. Ñ Jennifer Weil
    Image Credit: Vanni Bassetti for WWD

    Eugene Souleiman said he created a side part and ponytail for models at the Stella McCartney show, where they were meant to look like they had just gotten out of the shower. — Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Givenchy RTW Fall 2019

    Hairstylist Guido Palau created a Òboyish kind of ponytailÓ for the Givenchy show. He crafted a deep side part on modelsÕ heads, so their hair fell over their eyebrows. Palau planned to pull some strands out right before models hit the catwalk, so they looked a bit disheveled. ÒThereÕs a masculine-feminine kind of vibe,Ó he said. ÒItÕs got a boyish strength, [but] itÕs still very beautiful and luxe.Ó Palau was working with Redken, including Triple Dry 15 Dry Texture Spray and Satin Wear products. Ñ Jennifer Weil
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard for WWD

    Hairstylist Guido Palau created a “boyish kind of ponytail” for the Givenchy show. He crafted a deep side part on models’ heads, so their hair fell over their eyebrows. Palau planned to pull some strands out right before models hit the catwalk, so they looked a bit disheveled. “There’s a masculine-feminine kind of vibe,” he said. “It’s got a boyish strength, [but] it’s still very beautiful and luxe.” Palau was working with Redken, including Triple Dry 15 Dry Texture Spray and Satin Wear products. — Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Isabel Marant RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Isabel Marant RTW Fall 2019, photographed in Paris on February 28, 2019.
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard for WWD

    The inspiration for Isabel Marant today was a free woman – in French we say the ‘baroudeuse,’” said hairstylist Damien Boissinot. “We have two looks. The first one is a messy bun – the hair back, a dry texture, and we mess [it] up. Then the second look is a middle parting, beautiful hair,” he said, adding that was made to look like wind had swept through it. – Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Haider Ackermann RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Haider Ackermann RTW Fall 2019, photographed in Paris on March 2, 2019.
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard for WWD

    “It’s a very small head. It’s as flat as it can possibly be, and there is no texture to it,” said Duffy of the hairstyle he conceived for the Haider Ackermann show. “We’ve got rid of any comb marks, brush marks by squashing product into the hair and drying it with a hair net.” The hairstylist was working with L’Oréal Paris products, including Elnett Satin Fixation Ultra Forte lacquer and Studio Line gel for the look. “We’re essentially painting on what from the front will look like a lacquered hairband,” said Duffy. “That’s essentially what we want the top three-quarters of the hair to look like.” The remaining tresses were tucked into collars. – Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Balmain RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Balmain RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard for WWD

    “We are doing punky princesses today at Balmain,” said hairstylist Sam McKnight. “They’re quite young and fresh, [with] low ponytails. We’ve got some punky chain headbands, leather caps, and some with nothing.” He called the look “clean.” “I’ve used a little bit of my Cool Girl [Barely There Texture Mist] to break it up a little bit, so it’s a softer texture, but [hair is] kind of small and tight – not really hard going over the ears, like they did it themselves,” said McKnight. – Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Issey MiyakeRTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Issey Miyake RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Vanni Bassetti for WWD

    “The show is about the journey to find inspiration,” said James Pecis, who explained how that translated into the hairstyle for the collection was indirect but linked. “The ideas we used for the hair are things that I gather throughout the year.” Working with L’Oréal products, Pecis created two looks. He blow-dried models hair for a light, natural texture in front, and a ponytail was created at the center back of their heads. A loop was tied into it, then hair back-combed around the loop to create a cone shape with a different, more matted texture that was spritzed with hairspray and covered with a twisted do-rag. For the second look, hair was prepped similarly and pulled into a high ponytail. That was fastened with an elastic, woven into a braid before being cut. “The whole thing drops a little bit and creates a bit of a looser texture on the sides. Then we’re using an elastic thread to stitch back and forth,” continued Pecis. “It pulls everything in and holds the ponytail down… creating a really nice, easy texture in the back.” – Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Lanvin RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Lanvin RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Vanni Bassetti for WWD

    Models’ hair at Lanvin was left with its natural texture. “They really wanted this kind of very graphic, strong, clean center parting, but the rest of the hair is product-fee, very loose, very natural,” said hairstylist Duffy. “It’s nonfuss hair. We’re not creating a woman, we’re embracing the woman.” — Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Mugler RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Mugler RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard for WWD

    “We are embracing the woman and her natural self, but in an elevated way,” explained hairstylist Jawara Wauchope. “We have some girls with their hair really pulled back… and some girls with a nice slick back, but with a bit of shape, depending on the type of hair they have. Then we’re embracing the natural curl of certain girls, so we’re making it a bit bigger with some salt spray. We’re doing some girls in bantu knots.” — Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Off-White RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Off-White  RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Kuba Dabrowski for WWD

    Jawara Wauchope said the beauty look at Off-White was meant to be “beautiful, free and easy. It’s like a girl that gets her hair done, takes care of herself. She lives in it a little bit, hanging out with her friends on Saturday, going to a boujee brunch on Sunday,” the hairstylist explained. He blew out models’ tresses, lightly tonging their ends. Wauchpe said he made curly hair look a bit more refined and created a bit of a braid on some models. – Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Paco Rabanne RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Paco Rabanne RTW Fall 2019, photographed in Paris on February 28, 2019.
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard for WWD

    Paul Hanlon explained there were three references for the beauty look at Paco Rabanne’s show. A Forties Lauren Bacall was one, with her Hollywood glamor, channeled with “a low side parting, very tight, brushed-out [hair] – very soft,” he explained. Edie Sedgwick, from the Sixties, was another reference. For that section, models got a side part and ponytail “so that from the front, there’s a bit of boyishness to it,” said Hanlon. For models with afros, hair was fashioned into mini micro-braids. Faux diamond accessories bejeweled some of the looks. “This season [the Paco woman] is a little bit more done, more glamorous,” said Hanlon. – Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Rochas RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Rochas RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard for WWD

    The hairstyle at Rochas was meant to channel a couture-meets-ready-to-wear aesthetic. Anthony Turner crafted a ponytail on models walking the show. “The perfection of it is what makes it special,” he said. “It’s a very strong center part. I’m using quite a lot of [L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil] in the hair as I’m drying it. We’re after a very shiny, silky texture. Once it’s dry, I’m going to iron the hair with some straightening irons, then put it into a very low, tight ponytail. It’s very graphic, so there are no fly-aways. All the hair around the hairline is supertight, clean and very precise. It’s almost so perfect that it borders on strange.” — Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Yohji Yamamoto RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Yohji Yamamoto RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard for WWD

    Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman explained he and Yohji Yamamoto were discussion the fall 2019 fashion collection, “and he said: ‘I was trying very hard not to be a designer. What I wanted to do was to create clothes that I felt came before fashion existed, before people made clothes for other people.’ He said: ‘I want the clothes to feel very personal… [as if] they were made by the person wearing them,” said Souleiman. “I thought, 300 years ago there was no hairspray, combs, grips – no nothing. Let’s style [models’] hair with a fabric they made clothes with. So we are just creating hairstyles by literally picking it up in its rawest form and doing blanket stitches – stitching the hair up and holding it in place. Every one is different.” – Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Christian Dior RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Christian Dior RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD

    Guido Palau created for most models a ponytail with a natural texture at the Dior show, where each one wore a bucket hat. “The inspiration was really the silhouette,” he said. The hairstylist, working with Redken, used Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame prior to blow-drying out their tresses. “Then I’m using an iron in the hair just to create a natural texture,” he said, adding Triple Dry 15 Texture Spray was spritzed on, as well. “It’s got a luxe feeling, but there’s also a realness to it,” Palau added of the look. – Jennifer Weil

  • Backstage at Antonio Marras RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Antonio Marras-RTW-Fall-2019
    Image Credit: Kuba DabrowskiWWD

    James Pecis referenced the women portrayed in the Italian artist Amedeo Modigliani’s paintings conceiving a sculptural short bob with a fringe. First, he combed and tightly tied a back section of hair into a high ponytail, braiding it and pinning it on the head to create padding. He then divided the remaining tresses in different sections, backcombing them with the Oribe Swept Up Volume Powder spray before rolling them underneath to create a voluminous, curved shape. On the top, Pecis laid a custom wig to add a short fringe of the front and secured the effect with the Oribe Superfine Strong spray. As a final step, he dried the mane pushing in a pressing net around the head to create a ridge in the style, which was occasionally embellished on the back with rich headbands. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Giorgio Armani RTW Fall 2019

    Details at Giorgio Armani RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Aitor Rosas Suñé/WWD

    The Aldo Coppola Agency created an intricate short hairstyle vaguely recalling cornrows. Prepped with abundant L’Oréal Elnett spray, the mane was divided in smaller wisps, each twisted and shaped in curvilinear patterns before being fixed on the head with bobby pins. L’Oréal Professionel Alpiane and L’Oréal Tecni.Art Constructor sprays also helped in the process, by favoring the molding of the tresses and enhancing the overall water-effect of the look, which was finished off with occasional brushstrokes of color painted on a couple of twisted locks. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Roberto Cavalli RTW Fall 2019

    Roberto Cavalli-RTW-Fall-2019
    Image Credit: Delphine AchardWWD

    Tigi’s Bed Head Superstar “Queen for a day” thickening spray and Catwalk Texturising Salt Spray were key in the making of this gelled, side-parted hairstyle Paul Hanlon conceived for the show. After spritzing the products, Hanlon slicked back the hair and created volume on the front with a comb. On the back, he added a slight movement to the tresses using an iron or temporary tying braids, while he secured the effect drying the mane with a Dyson diffuser and finishing off the look with L’Oréal Elnett spray. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Salvatore Ferragamo RTW Fall 2019

    Salvatore Ferragamo-RTW-Fall-2019
    Image Credit: Delphine AchardWWD

    Jimmy Paul referenced Eighties slicked-back hairstyles in the androgynous look he created using GHD products. He abundantly applied the Straight & Tame cream and Total Volume foam on wet hair to add heaviness and reduce the volume of the mane. He then combed through the products, made a side part and created a little bit of volume on the front, before drying tresses with a diffuser for a boyish, imperfect result. At the end, Paul spritzed the Final Fix Hairspray to get an extra-shiny effect. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Marco de Vincenzo RTW Fall 2019

    Details at Marco de Vincenzo RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Aitor Rosas Suñé/WWD

    The Tigi Italia team, led by Massimiliano Mattei, conceived a natural hairstyle embracing each model’s individual hair texture. A slight wavy movement was created on long hair sliding a conical iron up and down the tresses while voluminous textures were contained in nets during the blow dry to control the mane. Key Tigi products included the Revitalising Dry Shampoo, the Multi-Tasking Styling Cream and the Firm Hold Curl Cream. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at MSGM RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage MSGM-RTW-Fall-2019
    Image Credit: Kuba DabrowskiWWD

    Anthony Turner enhanced every model’s natural beauty, making smooth hair smoother and curly manes curlier by using GHD products and a hair diffuser. On some girls with longer hair, Turner tied tresses into a natural low ponytail embellished with an MSGM headscarf for an added pop of color on the head. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Prada RTW Fall 2019

    Guido Palau interpreted the collectionÕs dark romance theme through a nod to gothic girls. He conceived different takes on a severe, middle-parted style by dyeing the modelsÕ manes in jet black or baby blond, as well as offering some graphic bobs. The most notable looks were the super-long side braids Ñ reminiscent of Wednesday Addams Ñ he created by carefully applying iron-straightened extensions and molding tresses with Redken Dry Shampoo Paste 05 styling paste. Trimmed extensions were used to enhance the volume of simpler ponytails, while the Redken Forceful 23 super-strength hairspray was key to secure the extreme hold on each mane.ÊÑ Sandra Salibian
    Image Credit: WWD/REX/Shutterstock

    Guido Palau interpreted the collection’s dark romance theme through a nod to gothic girls. He conceived different takes on a severe, middle-parted style by dyeing the models’ manes in jet black or baby blond, as well as offering some graphic bobs. The most notable looks were the super-long side braids — reminiscent of Wednesday Addams — he created by carefully applying iron-straightened extensions and molding tresses with Redken Dry Shampoo Paste 05 styling paste. Trimmed extensions were used to enhance the volume of simpler ponytails, while the Redken Forceful 23 super-strength hairspray was key to secure the extreme hold on each mane. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Jil Sander RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Jil Sander RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Kuba Dabrowski/WWD

    Individual, raw hairstyles were conceived by Eugene Souleiman. Long hairs were tied in a twisted bun with a central lock left out loose, while shorter manes were styled in half-up ponytails. Strands were raised on the front and on the neck of each model and messily styled by hand to enhance the effect. Key Wella Professionals products included EIMI Oil Spritz, EIMI Root Shoot mousse and the EIMI Sugar Lift spray. — Sandra Salibian
     

  • Backstage at Alberta Ferretti RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Alberta Ferretti RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD

    Guido Palau applied the Redken Frizz Dismiss Rebel Tame cream on damp hair before blow-drying it smoothly. Then, he put texture and movement back in the mane bending tresses with a large brush and his hands. The result was a middle parted style that delivered ease with a finish. “This is a new luxury. We can do it much rawer than this, but this is the way real women would understand natural hair: There’s a finish, there’s a hairline being blow-dried, there’s a top layer of the hair being smoothed and there’s a naturalness that I think women like,” said Palau. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Christopher Kane RTW Fall 2019

    Christopher Kane RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

    Redken global creative director Guido Palau embraced models’ individual hair texture by conceiving a natural, middle-parted style. Three products helped him in the process: the All Soft Mega shampoo, the No Blow Dry cream applied on damp hair and the Outshine anti-frizz milk. “It’s strangely sophisticated and minimal but it has personality. It’s almost like when you have a great cashmere jumper that is expensive but looks understated – I feel this style has that kind of downplay but ultimate luxury,” said Palau. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at JW Anderson RTW Fall 2019

    JW Anderson RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

    “We’re basically mimicking, for want of a better word, Lego hair,” said Anthony Turner, who delivered a graphic, conceptual look. L’Oréal Tecni Art Glue gel and the Dyson diffuser were essential throughout the process, which saw Turner parting a triangular front section from the rest of the mane. On the front, he combed tresses forward and stack them to the forehead with gel, before molding wavy shapes with the edge of a tail comb. On the back, he twisted a tight pony tail into a knot and to top it all off, he dried and secured the style with the Dyson diffuser before the look was finished off with little hats. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Erdem RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Erdem RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Kuba Dabrowski/WWD

    Anthony Turner nodded to the Fifties and early Sixties in the sculpted, aerodynamic hair-do created for the show. His aim was to get slightly futuristic proportions rather than a retro look and to achieved that, he prepared tresses by applying the L’Oréal TecniArt Full Volume mousse and drying them with Dyson tools. Then, he parted the mane in two sections: The front was backcombed and brought back in an elongated shape and the back was a messy bun he knotted on the top of the head to create padding. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Peter Pilotto RTW Fall 2019

    Peter Pilotto RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

    “Sometimes women having a lot of fun tend not to wash their hair as much, so I wanted to turn this into a style,” Jawara Wauchope said about two different looks inspired by party girls that he conceived for the show. After preparing the hair by abundantly applying KMS products – including Hair Play dry wax and Therma Shape and Curl up sprays, – he middle-parted some models’ manes and loosely curled the tresses. On the rest of the girls, he shaped a tight, low bun “to resemble an envelope.” — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Mary Katrantzou RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Mary Katrantzou RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Kuba Dabrowski / WWD

    Anthony Turner conceived a “grumpy hairstyle for moody girls” — basically a messy side part dragged over on the forehead and secured with a bobby pin. Throughout the process, Turner treated tresses with his fingers, mainly using water and the L’Oréal Wild Stylers Beach Waves product, before spritzing L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium. Blue, pink, orange and rainbow-hued extensions prepared by Redken colorist Josh Wood were applied in a haphazard way to mimic “a homemade” effect. — Sandra Salibian

  • Backstage at Simone Rocha RTW Fall 2019

    Backstage at Simone Rocha RTW Fall 2019
    Image Credit: Kuba Drabowski/WWD

    James Pecis referenced Louise Bourgeois’ hairstyle for the show, which was inspired to the American-French artist’s work. “She was a very practical person — she used just to hold the front back,” said Pecis, who created an embellished version. He sprayed tresses and tied them back into ponytails to put a dent in the hair, twisting locks or shaping them with a curling iron before cutting the hairbands and letting the mane loose. He then added barrettes embellished with ruby or black crystals, as well as pearls, on the sides and back of the head. Key products included KMS Hair Play spray dry wax and Oribe’s soon-to-be-launched leave-in conditioner. — Sandra Salibian

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