Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Daniela Villegas

Daniela Villegas’ latest collection, “Chromatic Paradise,” combines the fine jeweler’s love of all creatures and inspiration from her hometown of Mexico City. This line’s pièce de résistance is the Axolotl, also known as the Mexican salamander, which becomes an elaborate cuff, with raw opal in 18-karat rose gold. The designer has an affinity for the “cute” reptile, which she chose as the symbol of this collection. Also in the group is a changeable three-part ring, with pieces that can be worn separately or together to form a beetle or a disc medallion ladybug necklace made from raw jasper stones in a circular formation. The center re-creates the native Mexican cactus flower with spinel and set with emeralds, tsavorites, rhodolites and sapphires. 

 — Roxanne Robinson

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Marc Deloche

Marc Deloche’s third collection, simply called Numero 3, further incorporates the designer’s architectural background into modern, graphic jewelry. Taking subtle cues from Greece, the collection features a new link called the Circe, which somewhat resembles a paper clip. Its unique connection joint allows the wearer to transform the size of the pieces. For instance, a long chain can be shortened into a choker or transformed to a Y-shape necklace. Turqouise also played into the collection as a mini-dot inside the link on a pair of earrings, or a large disc — a nod to the goddess Persephone — on an open gold cuff.
— Roxanne Robinson

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Jennifer Fisher

Jennifer Fisher

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Lydia Courteille

Named after the famous Topkapi palace in Istanbul and inspired by the love of Roxelana — a slave who was freed by Sultan Suleiman and made his legimate consort — this ornate, fantasy collection of high jewelry from Lydia Courteille comprises 20 one-of-a-kind pieces. Several motifs from the palace, such as the famous Iznik ceramics adorned in black Halfeti roses and red tulips, appear in the jewelry. A head-turner is a magnificent headpiece built around a large opal with blue sapphires, rubies and emeralds. One ring, a conversation piece, depicts the sultan staring into a “crystal ball” with an interior engraving of a naked woman — presumably Roxelana.
— Roxanne Robinson

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Aurelie Bidermann

Just back in the swing of work after the birth of her daughter two months ago, Aurelie Bidermann said she was inspired by her parents’ house in the 16th arrondissement of Paris. There, the house is full of modern architecture and a lush garden full of flowers is in bloom throughout the summer. For spring, the designer looked to the lily of the valley flower. Adorned with semiprecious stones, this was the emphasis of the collection. (In fact, flowers are so important to her, she named her daughter Rose.) She also showed graphic pieces that referred to the architectural details of the homestead, such as the white marble floor inspiring a large ear-drop shape on earrings and a bold cuff. — Roxanne Robinson 

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Charlotte Chesnais

Charlotte Chesnais is going bigger and bolder for spring. The inspiration for her line came from ethnic jewelry and African motifs, with a dose of the Seventies. A new pair of hoop earrings, often worn mismatched in gold and silver tones, are made with a clip-on to face outward. A petite curved spike sits just inside the top of the ear, while a prominent rounded torque choker can be worn with or without an added chain detail, the latter somewhat reminiscent of a piece of African history not to be glorified. — Roxanne Robinson 

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Kim Mee Hye

Kim Mee Hye set about updating her line of convertible and graphic jewelry this season to be more inclusive. Called The Foyer — which in French refers to the main room of the house, not the entryway — Hye created a group of geometric and oversize ear cuffs and a few rings that sit directly on the ear, no piercing required. A few styles also have additional rings as if the “object” is wearing the earring. Her democracy came in the form of materials and prices, as the designer is adding a plated metals and Swarovski crystal line in addition to the fine-jewelry offer. This is Hye’s idea of doing a “real accessory,” that when paired with a simple T-shirt, it “makes the look, like another layer on your face.” — Roxanne Robinson 

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Swarovski

It was a tale of two cities for Swarovski’s creative director, Nathalie Colin, who was inspired by the easy-breezy vibe of Los Angeles — with its sunset color palette, palm trees and gypset-boho-festival girls — and the chic architecture of her hometown of Paris. The Centre Pompidou, the I.M. Pei pyramid at the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower’s classic iron structure became necklaces, rings and the like.

— Roxanne Robinson

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Atelier Swarovski

Atelier Swarovski continues its seasonal partnerships, this time working with Swarovski-collab veteran Rosie Assoulin, who was back on board, while newcomers Fiona Kotur of Kotur applied her minaudière styling skills to wood-and-crystal combination necklaces and bracelets. The design team at Lanvin revisited some of the Art Deco-inspired classics from Alber Elbaz’s tenure for these chunky, bold statement-makers.

— Roxanne Robinson

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Eddie Borgo Jewelry

Lovers of Eddie Borgo’s jewelry know that functional hardware can be the main attraction. Case in point: After the success of the safety-chain choker, the designer expanded on the motif by enlarging the chain and lobster-claw clasp as a design detail on an articulated choker or bracelet. Borgo pared back the embellishment for this collection, focusing on basic forms and styles — hoop earrings, chunky chains and sleek bracelets — in what he calls “modern classicism.” The spare designs in gold and silver, and in triangular and circular shapes, were purposely mismatched, color-wise, when it came to the earrings.

— Roxanne Robinson

Jewelry Scene Paris Spring 2017: Annelise Michelson

Annelise Michelson approaches her jewelry like sculpture. In her collection called “Solar,” she created a crater shape that recalls the sun. It was finished to resemble a white ash in one version, and also came in traditional gold and silver finishes. Michelson fashioned it to be a “talisman that sits on your solar plexus and radiates shine from your heart center.” The designer also looked to the natural phenomenon of lava flow to create a special earring style that looked like a dried drip of the molten ooze. Lest it all be too organic, Michelson also created the “alpha” collection of simple, graphic shapes using a screw closure on chokers, bracelets and earrings. — Roxanne Robinson