Marc Jacobs: Even with the hindsight of hundreds of shows, Marc Jacobs’ New York blockbuster remains the season’s most intriguing. Conflicting opinions heralded the designer as fab fashion deity or Satan of schmattas.
Prada: “Pajamas decorated with fairies ý who will wear that?” queried one nonbelieving fashion editor. More to the point, who other than Miuccia Prada would dare suggest it? Her dark fairy tale was captivating.
Jil Sander: Minimal? Jil Sander’s Raf Simons actually went for minimalism-plus, working in mesmerizing flourishes such as this ethereal tulle pouf.
Giles: The environment was on the mind of many designers, including Giles Deacon who paid tribute, ironically, in full-on leafy Latex.
Louis Vuitton: His “Nurses” opening set the tone for Marc Jacobs’ unabashedly commercial collaboration with Richard Prince at Louis Vuitton. Can it top the still-registering Murakami returns?
Rodarte: Watching young talent develop is one of fashion’s great joys. Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters may have struggled a bit, but they took a major step toward commercial viability.
Balenciaga: Tired of ho-hum spangles, Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquiere proposed a shocking space-glam alternative for big nights out. Whether the red-carpet set boards the ship remains to be seen.
Alexander McQueen: Couture often masquerades as ready-to-wear at Alexander McQueen. Here, it did so in breathtaking feathers, both real and faux.
Lanvin: Reality fascinates? You bet. With this coat-and-dress combination, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz turned every working woman in his audience into his love slave, fashionably speaking.