Love in the Air at Aperlai: There was a lot of love in the air at Alessandra Lanvin’s Aperlai presentation with crystal heart embellishments adorning satin pumps and sandals. Multicolor rainbow sandals stole the show while woven platforms delivered a primary hued punch. The heart motifs were inspired by artist Niki de Saint Phalle, whose work also inspired Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior.
Love in the Air at Aperlai: There was a lot of love in the air at Alessandra Lanvin’s Aperlai presentation with crystal heart embellishments adorning satin pumps and sandals. Multicolor rainbow sandals stole the show while woven platforms delivered a primary hued punch. The heart motifs were inspired by artist Niki de Saint Phalle, whose work also inspired Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior.
Aquazzura: Bringing ‘Sexy Back’: “Let’s bring sexy back,” said Aquazzura creative director Edgardo Osorio. He’s been watching reruns of “Sex and the City,” which, he says, “practically invented the jeweled pump.” He also drew on Nineties fashion iconography and a recent trip to Rajasthan. From mules in saturated silks and Jaipur style gemstones to mirror-embellished sandals, he riffed on saris, supermodels and Sarah Jessica Parker. It was an intoxicating mix.
Brian Atwood Puts Dancing Men in Heels: Brian Atwood’s presentation featured a performance by the all-male Yanis Marshall dance troop, who wore a selection of the designer’s highest heels. Standout styles included color-block sandals with cone-shaped heels, tie-dye fringed boots, and sandals with leather pompoms that were definitely made for dancing.
Robert Clergerie’s New Recruit Refreshes DNA: The appointment of David Tournaire Beauciel as creative director at French heritage label Robert Clergerie was an astute move. Tournaire has his own line and is also behind the footwear at Balenciaga. He has a knack for absorbing a label’s DNA and translating it in fresh ways. To wit: He gave Clergerie’s signature raffia a contemporary spin as both an architectural mule with extended tongue and as a side panel on a sneaker. The latter is available see-now-buy-now on a special microsite.
Robert Clergerie’s New Recruit Refreshes DNA: The appointment of David Tournaire Beauciel as creative director at French heritage label Robert Clergerie was an astute move. Tournaire has his own line and is also behind the footwear at Balenciaga. He has a knack for absorbing a label’s DNA and translating it in fresh ways. To wit: He gave Clergerie’s signature raffia a contemporary spin as both an architectural mule with extended tongue and as a side panel on a sneaker. The latter is available see-now-buy-now on a special microsite.
Hermès Explores Life Aquatic for Accessories: The life aquatic, from poolside to beach, was on Pierre Hardy’s mind for spring at Hermès. Graphic color-blocking was key and used to great effect on a new suede version of the classic Oram sandal. Espadrille wedges came with rubber soles and a woven strap borrowed from a beach bag.
Hermès Explores Life Aquatic for Accessories: By contrast, bags played up the house’s equestrian heritage with a new bucket style called the Gallop and another in the shape of an actual horse’s head – part bag, part objet d’art.
Pierre Hardy Goes Artsy for Spring: Pierre Hardy’s spring 2018 collection was inspired by abstract art. Dramatic color-block mules, sandals, sock boots and slides all had a graphic, architectural vibe and came in a punchy palette that took in cobalt blue, coral, sunshine yellow and emerald green.
Byredo Goes for Racy Bags: Ben Gorham had access to his friend Craig McDean’s archived photography – a series that he took throughout his travels throughout America’s bible belt. ÒI’ve always had a personal fascination with early Seventies American muscle cars and so I asked him if I could use the outtakes,Ó he said.
Gorham focused on two things: translating the striping technique of cars into leather making – which essentially means cutting and stitching- and getting the colors right, which he said took more than few trips to the tannery.
Eddie Borgo Taps into Georgia O’Keefe as Well of Inspiration: Eddie Borgo looked at Georgia O’Keefe’s large-scale paintings and her own personal style to draw for his spring collection. “We looked at her flowers and how they feel so sculptural yet organic,Ó he explained. ÒWe wanted to take some of that fluidity and incorporate it, so youÕll see a lot of manipulating the metal.Ó Meanwhile, his signature bandanas were expressed through twists and folds in bracelets and earrings that created the illusion of fabric. Bags also echoed O’Keefe’s art most memorably a beautiful floral pattern.
Eddie Borgo Taps into Georgia O’Keefe as Well of Inspiration: Eddie Borgo looked at Georgia O’Keefe’s large-scale paintings and her own personal style to draw for his spring collection. “We looked at her flowers and how they feel so sculptural yet organic,Ó he explained. ÒWe wanted to take some of that fluidity and incorporate it, so youÕll see a lot of manipulating the metal.Ó Meanwhile, his signature bandanas were expressed through twists and folds in bracelets and earrings that created the illusion of fabric. Bags also echoed O’Keefe’s art most memorably a beautiful floral pattern.
Jennifer Fisher Explores Lighter Touch: Jennifer FisherÕs rooftop gathering at the Ritz could not have been more fitting for a spring collection all about a breezier touch. ÒWhen people think of me, they think of things that are heavy and geometrical and so I wanted to do something a little less bold,” she said. Butterfly motif earrings in open metalwork still conveyed Fisher’s graphic nature, for example, while still offering her loyal customers those statement pieces.
Jennifer Fisher Explores Lighter Touch: Jennifer FisherÕs rooftop gathering at the Ritz could not have been more fitting for a spring collection all about a breezier touch. ÒWhen people think of me, they think of things that are heavy and geometrical and so I wanted to do something a little less bold,” she said. Butterfly motif earrings in open metalwork still conveyed Fisher’s graphic nature, for example, while still offering her loyal customers those statement pieces.
Olgana Paris Keeps Bedazzling: Kardashian favorite Olgana Paris has now been adopted by Bella Hadid and Rihanna, too – the latter ordering styles in bespoke colors. Spring novelties include bejazzled updates on the signature Amazon sandal and mules with detatchable jeweled ankle cuffs that can double up as bracelets.
Francesco Russo Catches Fishnet Mesh Trend: New styles from Francesco Russo include a scalloped graphic sandal with clear plastic details so the straps appear suspended, as if floating on the foot. For boots, the designer has been exploring the fishnet mesh that has caught the collective imagination this season.
Nicholas Kirkwood Goes for Smoky Heels: “Too much information,” is Nicholas Kirkwood’s view on Instagram culture. His spring collection, however, is loaded with visual intrigue. Smoky Perspex heels inspired by Wolfgang Tillmans photography, bleached out denim – both the actual fabric and digitally printed version on nappa leather – origami folds and the negative space between the designer’s signature chevrons were all nicely executed in boot, sandal and mule silhouettes. Less is more.
Alchimia Di Ballin Serves up Street Style: Alchimia Di Ballin, the recently conceived footwear line from Italian heritage company Ballin, has created new variations on its Ledra heel silhouette for spring. Its white patent track pant boots with their dramatic go-faster stripes seemed tailor-made for the street style circuit.
Macramé Tales Center Stage at Alexandre Birman: Spring for Alexandre Birman was about consolidating his label’s DNA with its ultra feminine silhouettes and signature knotted fastenings that eschew the need for anything as bourgeois as a buckle. The variation came in the materials and techniques with naturally tanned leathers and macramé taking center stage. Jewel toned satins and rainbow Lurex packed a hot Latino punch.
Stella Luna: No More Sufferings: Stella Luna creative director Capucine Safyurtlu offered up something for everyone with pretty plissé ruffles, edgy fishnet takes on last season’s sock boot; XXL “Stella” buckles; color-blocked ankle boots in a neoprene and leather patchwork; and plenty of flats because, the designer said frankly, “women don’t want to suffer any more.”
Neous Takes Modernist Approach: With its modernist heels combining wood and Perspex, graphic silhouettes and largely black, white and red palette, the spring 2018 collection from buzzy new shoe label Neous felt like a breath of fresh air. Nicholas Kirkwood alumnus Alan Buanne and fashion stylist Vanissa Antonious are the brand’s designers and the duo has also just collaborated with Peter Pilotto for the latter’s spring 2018 show in London.
Neous Takes Modernist Approach: With its modernist heels combining wood and Perspex, graphic silhouettes and largely black, white and red palette, the spring 2018 collection from buzzy new shoe label Neous felt like a breath of fresh air. Nicholas Kirkwood alumnus Alan Buanne and fashion stylist Vanissa Antonious are the brand’s designers and the duo has also just collaborated with Peter Pilotto for the latter’s spring 2018 show in London.
Rupert Sanderson Keeps it Simple
Frills and feathers were Rupert Sanderson’s spring motifs, the most successful looks executed subtly as leather fringing on boots and mules or as an extension of the buckles on monk straps or sandals. Likewise the best silhouettes were similarly simple; chiseled toes and micro heels – a nice foil for punchy shades including emerald green and fuchsia pink.
Rupert Sanderson Keeps it Simple
Frills and feathers were Rupert Sanderson’s spring motifs, the most successful looks executed subtly as leather fringing on boots and mules or as an extension of the buckles on monk straps or sandals. Likewise the best silhouettes were similarly simple; chiseled toes and micro heels – a nice foil for punchy shades including emerald green and fuchsia pink.
Christian Louboutin is All Women
For next year’s International Women’s Day, Christian Louboutin has reimagined his popular “nudes” collection as a series of seven pumps – clear PVC uppers with hand applied degradé crystals and heels done in seven colors to match a variety of different skin tones. There was also a versatile new bag shape with adjustable straps called the Rubylou.
Fabrizio Viti’s Disco Diva:
The eponymous line from Fabrizio Viti, the man behind Louis Vuitton’s women’s shoe collection is shaping up nicely for spring. Feminine meets edgy, the designer has a great eye for unexpected fabric combinations – mat gommato heels or rubber bow embellishments on leather or satin uppers. It shouldn’t work but it does. He has also expanded his resort 2018 Diana Ross tribute collection with disco-ready metallic sandals in a 70s palette and leopard print versions aimed at party animals everywhere.
Roger Vivier’s Choc Factor:
“It’s all about thinking inside the box,” joked Roger Vivier creative director, Bruno Frisoni of the giant box installation at his Paris presentation. It consisted of 10,500 individual shoe boxes. “What better than a beautiful box to show a collection?” He’s introduced a new angled heel shape for spring 2018 called the ‘Choc’ (based on a model from the label’s archives) plus a new ‘V-Type’ upper (a pun on the Jaguar E-type). Seasonal shades? Tangerine red and emerald green. There is also a new stretch ankle boot sure to propel the label forward and a striped story, complete with RV monogram, that riffs off gentleman’s shirting. As for the bags, a stripy update on the hero Viv’ Cabas came in a mix of raffia and leather while elsewhere a new micro bag, designed with smokers in mind, was shaped like another box, a cigarette packet. “They can wear it at night,” Frisoni quipped.
Burak Uyan – Welcome to the Future:
Burak Uyan went retro future for spring with printed mules and kitten heeled slingbacks drawing inspiration from the monochrome spiral artwork of 60s TV series Time Tunnel. Futuristic details included floating eyelets and metallic coated Perspex block heels.
Kalda – From Iceland With Love:
According to Browns Fashion’s womenswear buying director, Ida Petersson, Katrin Alda’s fledging Icelandic label Kalda makes the best mules in the business. Now, Alda has further expanded her repertoire for spring to include slides, sneakers and boots – all with her signature diamante buckles.