Echoing the concept of its Juste un Clou line, based on making ordinary objects precious, Cartier in April will introduce an update on the industrial theme with the launch of its Ecrou line of bracelets embellished with nuts and available in 18-carat white or rose gold. Among other new offerings, the house this fall will launch a black satin evening bag bearing its iconic mosaic panther motif, dubbed the Panthère de Cartier.
For the second time, Pierre Hardy presented his Atelier line of his most sophisticated and experimental styles during Paris Fashion Week.
Inspired by Pris’ bodysuit in “Blade Runner,” the “second-skin” pumps, ankle boots, zipped biker boots and over-the-knee boots tightly sheathed the feet and legs like second skins.
Playing around with the retro idea of coordinating one’s bag and shoes, Hardy embellished his leather goods collection with carved cutouts.
The styles were revved up with colorful geometrical cutouts, contrasting materials — varnished leather and suede — and highlighted piping in white, silver or red.
Who’d have thought it? The humble dung beetle — complete with its ball of dung in the guise of a raw azurite — found its way into Lydia Courteille’s latest jewelry collection, inspired by a trip to the Sahara, via this imposing one-off ring.
Courteille embraced the unique shapes of Australian opals in a range of blues, surrounding them with 18-karat gold, topazolites and hessonites shaped to look like the wind-swept sand, in this collection of organic shapes crawling with insect forms. This imposing cuff bracelet featured a giant domed opal like a starry sky over the desert set in gold with hauynites, topazolites, hessonites and yellow sapphires.
This three-in-one “harem” ring, held together with a gold chain, can be worn on a single finger or across two or three. Australian opals were mounted in 18-karat gold set with topazolites and hessonites in one of the less-imposing pieces in the collection of 13 unique designs.
These versatile and original earrings featured several strands of yellow sapphire beads that form a detachable necklace. Set with two opals as well as topazolites, hessonites and yellow sapphires, one featured an ear cuff for an added touch of eccentricity.
On one of the standout pieces in the collection, two-horned vipers wrap their bodies around the neck as if hidden under a desert rock. With their opal heads and yellow sapphire eyes, they look almost like they are poised to bite.
Robert Clergerie creative director Roland Mouret continues the brand’s tradition of designing shoes inspired by architecture. For fall, the D’amore clog featured a substantial, sculptural wooden heel.
Left and center: Fluffy and Muffy, a shearling and rabbit Tempur-Pedic-soled shoe that is new for fall. Right: Another newly introduced style, a satin stretch bootie with a “teardrop” heel.
Robert Clergerie for Self-Portrait: The patent-leather Kibbon boot, with a grosgrain ribbon tie at the back of the boot, linking through oblong metal eyelets.
This season’s updates on Robert Clergerie’s iconic lace-up oxfords.
“This collection is our reinterpretation of jewelry collected during the holidays all over the world,” said Eddie Borgo at his Paris Fashion Week presentation. “My friends have been bringing back local handcrafted jewelry from their travels.”
This bracelet, for example, was inspired by an anklet from North Africa.
“We wanted to create something that was a three-dimensional object out of the paillettes,” Borgo said.
These paillette mobile earrings are extremely lightweight.
“We were thinking about our customer in terms of her lifestyle — she travels, she collects jewelry, she works — so this bag is actually a fully functional briefcase — she can fit her iPad, phone, pen, lipstick.”
For fall, Charlotte Chesnais looked back at her previous work and added items to each “family.” Here, her new hair pins, which are part of her Petal collection.
She is introducing this fun key ring, which has a clasp for easy removal, so it can be worn as a necklace or bracelet.
Mini Bolide 1923 handbags were paired with a variety of colorful straps. The embroidered calfskin version, shown in the middle, came with a pink-and-yellow plaited calfskin strap.
Hermès nodded to its equestrian roots with a black Kelly bag with a strap covered in cabochons in palladium-finish metal.
Pierre Hardy also used the cabochons to decorative effect on suede loafers and Seventies-style platform shoes, which came in red or black.
Hardy played with extra-thick compensated soles in different colored layers, which were shown on everything from black-patent leather sandals to knee-high lace-up boots.
English new wave and the French electro scene of the Eighties inspired Nicholas Kirkwood’s fall collection. Here, his fun leather and velvet geometric bootie.
He brought back his cage-cone heel for fall, seen here in various styles.
A glittery sock boot had Kirkwood’s signature pearl detail.
Sneakers came in white, black and blush.
A Chelsea boot was done in a snake print.
“I recently introduced boots to the collection,” said Olgana creative director Olga Djangirov at her Paris showroom. “More and more, my customers kept asking for casual shoes, so we [added] feminine touches like French button details.” Here, Djangirov with some of her new designs for fall.
These textured gold-tone platform boots are one of the new boot offerings from her fall collection.
These satin slingbacks feature removable velvet bows that can also be tied around booties. “Nowadays women like to make things their own,” she explained.
Djangirov embellished her signature heels with delicate satin bows for fall.
Emmanuel Tomasini, with his classic messenger bag and signature square details in his Paris showroom.
Colored bands on leopard prints referenced sports cars of the Seventies.
Mini bucket bags were shaped like pineapples, “But this time, I did it in a disco way,” he explained.
The new Rejane bag in hand-painted watercolor camouflage prints.
The Mini Vanity bag in perforated and studded versions.
Maison Michel creative director Priscilla Royer coined the term “ari-bo,” shorthand for aristo-bohème and a play on the name of candy brand Haribo, to describe the fall lineup: patchworks of the heirloom fabrics favored by aristocracy with “flashy, disco materials,” such as PVC and Neoprene.
Every day, the brand is posting a video on Instagram of hats. “In real life. I never leave home without a beanie in my bag because you never know when you might need a hat,” Royer said.
“Millinery and fashion design are similar. It’s the scale that changes,” she explains. “I create seasonal collections that increasingly include scarves, ear pieces and gloves for styling options, and as frames to the face.”
Christian Louboutin showcased his latest collaborations of the season. Here, the colorful pom-pom heels he designed for Novis.
These Moroccan-inspired velvet tassel slides are from Louboutin’s partnership with Tome.
Louboutin designed these Victorian-inspired booties for London-based Palmer Harding.
Knee-high lace-up boots were created for David Koma.
Fur-lined sandals are having a bit of a moment, it seems. Here, Cesare Paciotti’s take on the indulgent concept for fall comes with black mink lining — a first for him. He also put mink embellishments on his buckled bootie, a brand signature.
In another register, Paciotti offered up an ethnic theme, embroidering brightly colored beads all over boots, pumps and sneakers.
These fringed high boots will put a swing in your step.
Aquazzura founder Edgardo Osorio presented an impressive, opulent collection for fall. “I looked at the Silk Road, the trade between east and west, of spices, textiles,” he explained. “I have also been to Turkey several times in the past months, so I also find a lot of references there.” Here, his silk-velvet embroidered bootie.
A tassel added a little swing to this heel from his fall collection.
Velvet, ubiquitous on the runway this season, even made an appearance on footwear, like this emerald-green silk-velvet boot.
“A fur slipper is the ultimate luxury shoe,” he said at his presentation at the Hôtel d’Évreux.
His new pump: high at the back, with a straight, sharp line and a classic pump toe.
A masculine-feminine sabot with a classic lace-up front.
Francesco Russo’s play on a fetishist object, giving the impression of bare feet with just a heel.
British shoe designer Rupert Sanderson presented a collection inspired by night, exploring rich materials such as velvet, metallic laminates and shagreen offset by light-catching platinum tweed.
Azzedine Alaïa added more color into his accessories lineup for fall, duplicating his elaborate designs in shades including emerald green, burgundy and eggplant purple. Here, a striking green platform ankle boot with an asymmetric cut and lacing.
Alaïa’s Arabesque series, with tiny metallic stud patterns, came in a new flat ankle-boot style with a removable strap.
This standout cut-away ankle boot in black and oxblood leather was inspired by his dress designs from the Eighties.
New to Alaïa’s lineup of bags, this origami-inspired design was available in different sizes and colors, with or without metallic studs.
This mini tote, which was built from metal rivets, is a major statement piece.
Alaïa added the new Vienne Cercle motif to shoes, bags and other accessories. Here, a striking oxblood-red leather belt featuring the new pattern.
French shoe brand Aperlai offered stellar designs for fall, like this gold-metallic leather stiletto ankle boot.
Zigzag patterns were another important motif, seen here in graphic ankle boots and sandals with the brand’s signature Plexiglass Zottsass heel.
Another Aperlai signature, this open-sided flat ankle boot came with fringe and stud details.
Focused on strong lines and functionality while combining natural materials and metals, Corto Moltedo’s collection was inspired by midcentury architects and designers like Charlotte Perriand, Méret Oppenheim and Le Corbusier.
Corto Moltedo’s striped Jessie tote in intarsia calfskin and colored napas, the Sweet bag in the house’s new abstract “Dream” print and a pink clutch with metal hardware.
“Like an architect, I tend to address issues before considering shapes,” accessories designer Jérôme Dreyfuss said.
“My bags are made to follow women and make their lives easier,” he explained. To wit, he added a flashlight on a lanyard in large bags, detachable compartments to wallets and integrated card slots in a round clutch.
Billie, Momo or newcomer Bob — a small rectangular clutch — were all named after Dreyfuss’ male friends.
The inspiration for fall was “Nineties bad taste — think Kurt Cobain recycling bourgeois odds and ends,” he said of the collection’s collage of checks, uneven shaved shearling, embroidered patches and leopard and bourgeois tones of burgundy, khaki, navy and brown.
Shoes completed this collection and ran the gamut from Velcro-tabbed sneakers to kitten-heel suede pumps. Streamlined loafers and low boots were among the best options.
For fall, Linda Farrow’s sunglasses saw the light: Lenses were pale blue, pink and other pale hues, while pastels were the dominant palette for metal and acetate frames.
Farrow made discreet updates on a number of styles: Flat lenses extended the mirror trend on an oversized model, crenellated edges or twisted ribbon livened up metal and clear acetate was used to offset XXL frames. And for the first time, the brand developed metal-on-metal clip-ons.
Tones of blush and light gray were used on optical models. Acetate was inlaid with metal for a more dramatic look. One model, a softened octagonal design, was available exclusively available in this range.
Longchamp’s creative director, Sophie Delafontaine, granddaughter of the house’s founder, Jean Cassegrain, held a presentation for the brand’s core accessories line and its ready-to-wear for fall.
“It’s shaped a bit like a house,” said Delafontaine about Longchamp’s new bull-hide Madeleine bag, which is available in two sizes and four colors. It’s just the thing for women who like to carry around everything but the kitchen sink.
The Effrontée has an appealing androgynous vibe. For fall, it’s available in two bag styles, small leather goods and slipper-esque shoes in three colors with a grosgrain finish.
Mlle. Longchamp is a new style targeting young, urban women. Made of calfskin, it has perforated leather panels and is available in black, gray or tan as well as the vintage-inspired yellow seen here.
Common themes between Longchamp’s accessories and its rtw for fall included this Op Art-inspired colorful lambskin and cow-hide patchwork motif, here seen on a practical shopper style.
Drawing on its glove-making heritage, Perrin Paris has designed a series of glove-clutch-bag hybrids: L’Eiffel was an envelope clutch with a built-in glove on the front; Le Rond has a metal hand piece, and Le Corset was shown with grommets and leather lace for fall. Another favorite was a ball-shaped basket-bag called Le Petit Panier, updated with studs.
Other standouts included basket-weave clutches and frame bags inspired by Parisian bistro chairs; ladylike wood frame bags and Le Baggala, a roomy all-leather tote.
Inspired by Leo Tolstoy’s “War and Peace,” Tabitha Simmons offered up a play on contrasting themes, from dainty, richly embroidered suede designs to military-style boots for fall.
Standouts from the more feminine part of Tabitha Simmons’ register included these burgundy suede pumps with gold embroidery.
Damask was used on funky platforms or period-inspired booties with a lace sock insert.
These winter-white ankle boots with leather ruffles and stud embellishments were another highlight of the fall line.
Military embroideries were the inspiration for these pretty, floral-motif platforms and pumps.
The work of mid-century furniture and architect greats like Charlotte Perriand, Meret Oppenheim and Le Corbusier, and the way they use natural materials such as leather and fur combined with metals, to form functional pieces. Highlights included a striped tote in bright red calfskin, cream and baby pink nappa, and gloss-coated black nappa, with tweaked proportions on the stripes, and studded purses in a dreamy camo-style cloud print.
Boots were the strong point in the sweeping collection: here the Golden Star open bootie in gold-embroidered black velvet.
Boots were the strong point in the sweeping collection: here a gray bootie with ruffle detail.
Boots were the strong point in the sweeping collection: here a mannish lace-up style in printed suede, houndstooth and monochrome tartan.
Tyler Ellis channeled the glitz and glam of Monaco for her latest range of luxe clutches — put through a Twenties filter. Marrying bold exotics and statement metallics, highlights included a croc envelope clutch in a gradient icy blue metallic sheen, and the rock-and-roll paint-splash handbags.
Tyler Ellis channeled the glitz and glam of Monaco for her latest range of luxe clutches — put through a Twenties filter. Marrying bold exotics and statement metallics, highlights included a croc envelope clutch in a gradient icy blue metallic sheen, and the rock-and-roll paint-splash handbags.
Tyler Ellis channeled the glitz and glam of Monaco for her latest range of luxe clutches — put through a Twenties filter. Marrying bold exotics and statement metallics, highlights included a croc envelope clutch in a gradient icy blue metallic sheen, and the rock-and-roll paint-splash handbags.