Tapping into the chunky sneakers trend, French footwear specialist Philippe Model unveiled a capsule collection called “Vive” comprising thick-soled shoes in 14 different color combinations. Each design was injected with feminine touches via grosgrain ribbons appearing on a mustard suede style and rhinestones punctuating a subdued beige shoe. Psychedelic variations in neon colors, such as pink and yellow, had a Nineties vibe.
Nicolo Beretta has had quite the week. He announced that his Giannico label was acquired by L’Autre Chose and officially opened the later’s store on Saturday evening. For his Giannico collection, he took over historic Milanese jewelry store Pennisi’s to introduce his new collection, which naturally was inspired by jewelry.
Inspired by the late 19th century’s British Arts and Crafts movement, Borsalino creative director Giacomo Santucci enriched a wide range of high-end headpieces with precious embellishments. For example, a white Fedora was decorated with a detachable ribbon showing a metal and crystal tiara, while a dramatic straw style with a wide brim was punctuated by a floral brooch.
British heritage brand Church’s takes inspiration from summer hues and the landscapes of Cornwall, England for spring. Sea pink flowers and soft sand tones are paired with suede sandals and loafers. Python prints dress up new lace-ups.
Geox is making a bigger play for the hot sneaker market with a new women’s version of its best-selling Aerantis sneaker. The refined style plays up the brand’s extensive technology and features a breathing system on the upper and outsole. The color combinations, which mix white and bright hues, also is incorporated on knitwear-and-leather sneakers throughout the collection. Among Geox’s more dressed-up looks are espadrilles with suede leather detailing and slingback sandals on low heels. Animal and ethnic prints also appear on a number of silhouettes. Meanwhile, Geox’s new WWF collaboration capsule, which supports the World Wildlife Fund (among the world’s largest conservation organizations), is in stores and online at Geox.com now.
Santoni’s women’s collection took cues from its best men’s styles, including loafers and lace-ups. The three-buckle embellishment is key on both ankle boots and slippers, which come in five colors. Santoni also got in on the see-now, buy-now action, offering two fall styles in orange and light blue at its stores and online during Milan Fashion Week.
Fratelli Rossetti is touting dual-gender styles at a time when crossover looks are more dominate than ever. The “Brera bow” loafer, inspired by the style’s signature tassels, makes its debut this season. The bow element is featured on sandals, pumps and ballet flats.
Hogan was among the first brands to launch a luxury sneaker in the ’80s, long before high-end kicks were ubiquitous. As it continues to evolve the category, the Tod’s-owned label took cues from the great outdoors for spring. “Renewed interest around nature is a recurring theme in luxury,” said Sergio Azzolari, Hogan’s general manager. “So it’s natural that outdoor references are becoming more present. That is what we embrace in this collection.”
The Giusti Sisters behind AGL delivered a geometric collection for spring, focusing on sharp lines as seen in their pointed mules with ankle straps and mini stiletto heels. Two-tone cut-out booties and a new block heel shaped like a quarter moon also fit with the graphic theme.
Serapian’s quest for summer-ready bags resulted in twisted iterations of its styles and craft. Vertical tote bags made of straw were hemmed with burnt-brown crocodile leather while the brand’s signature Villa accordion handbag looked chic in a straw and burgundy leather combination. Paying tribute to the skilled hands of the artisans behind the brand’s creations, Serapian also unveiled a customization project for its “Mosaico” lineup, with different bags crafted with the signature technique bearing a “Signed by our Artisans” tag inside and a colored leather string weaves on the outside.
Mia Becar made a grand debut in a space overlooking Milan’s famed Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. The Los-Angeles based direct-to-consumer brand, which launched this summer.
Creative director Betsy Gonzalez was inspired by Hollywood’s Golden Age and her Mexican heritage. The collection features d’orsay pumps, mules, stiletto booties and more.
Bologna-based accessories brand Officina del Poggio saw big this season: in addition to its cute Safari bags, inspired by the functionality of workwear staples such as tool kit bags and binocular cases, designer Allison Hoeltzel added roomier pieces in the shape of the Sling bag, a sleeker version of Japanese over-the-shoulder fishing bags. Available in jet black or lilac with a contrasting orange handle, it was tested by the designer herself to make sure it could fit a laptop and was tanned using vegetable dye, an option that uses less water than traditional techniques.
Genevieve Xhaet is building a distinctive aesthetics for her Flapper brand, shying away from girlish designs and pivoting instead on sharp contrasts and unexpected use of materials and shapes. For spring a wide brim high-dome straw hat could be turned upside down and used as a beach bag thank to the addition of an handle, while another item had the dome moulded in the shape of a human face adding a dash of quirkiness. Xhaet also experimented with moiré for black silk turbans and a range of nylon, waterproof pieces. She also used the material to debut a small capsule collection of nightgowns as “my desire to create apparel has not died down,” said the designer.
Pollini took a walk down memory lane by revisiting some of its classics. In addition to its archive-inspired collection of shoes and bags, it updated equestrian boots, unveiled monk-strap loafers and emphasized the signature “cremino” sole. The brand’s horsebit is used across a range of shoes and bags.
Transformation was the key theme of the Orciani spring collection, which repurposed signature style adding new color nuances, sizes and a few items to further personalize women’s bags. The brand’s Sveva flap bag came in new nuanced colorways, including a pale pink to light blue combination, which added a playful touch to the refined grained leather design. A cute entry-level priced leather scarf could be attached to different parts of the bag to add character.
Rodo has a new graphic “Paris bag” lock accessory that decorates its bags and shoes. Footwear styles range from flat to chunky heels, and are fashioned in colors such as salmon, tan and mid blue. The bags take on more contemporary shapes this season, and take cues from the rich archive.
Taking inspiration from a summer spent island hopping in the Mediterranean Sea, a sense of joy and lightness of design ran through the collection at Il Bisonte. The shades of the ocean inspired the deep blue of a soft suede bag enriched with a cascade of fringes, while the brand’s signature high-end leather was combined with silk printed with a pattern of buffalos – the animal which is the emblem of the brand – on a range of more constructed designs.